Thank you much for the write-up! Quick question- What does pinning the thermostat plunger do in the process?Circling back. Thank you to @EOD Guy - I appreciate the PDF you posted. It has the supplemental sections popped open which is needed to do this properly. Tip: If you're archiving these transmission docs, make sure you grab the more detailed one, which I also attached.
The process itself is described very well in the document. As good or even better than Mercedes' WIS in terms of details, and hammers out any ambiguity in the descriptions. So I'll keep this limited to things I learned and experienced outside of the provided document.
Access is not an issue for any part of this job. You don't need more clearance than what the truck already provides (maybe). I slid myself under there and was ready to go. No panels to remove but I don't have the upgraded skid plate. The drain plug takes a 6mm hex key (more on this later) and the fill plug (o-ring; no crush washer) is a 24mm bolt. Plenty of room to swing a breaker bar in both cases, but have some extensions available.
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Transmission is level at stock configuration. Photo may not show it, but the bubble gets final say. Pardon the parallax in this picture.
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Use an extended-length allen key to hold the thermostat plunger in. I tried a large paperclip, but it was too flimsy that I couldn't get it through all the way. The extended length of the allen key also helped, this one a 1.25mm measured at the flats. Tip: This was probably the hardest part of the job, and it wasn't hard at all. "Hard" as in you have 10 cars in front of you at Starbucks hard. You just need to think through the exercise is all. There was no "dust cap" like the PDF states, and it's on the right side of the vehicle. Car's right.
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Get ready to sit and wait. The warm-up procedure can take time if your ambient temp is low, like in the morning. At 60degF ambient, mine took about 20min to warm up. Thankfully I had a coffee and this forum to entertain myself. Tip: You'll know that you successfully entered temp check/idle up mode when the "D" goes away from the cluster and a couple sensors are deactivated. When the transmission is up to temp, the "D" will appear solid, and the engine fans will switch to high. You might miss the "D" coming on, but the fans kicking on is an event I guarantee will get your attention. If the "D" is blinking, you are outside of the recommended fill temp.
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Have a spare plug handy. I found the 6mm hex key drive on the drain plug a bit lacking given the 30ft-lbs (fill plug 29ft-lbs) you're supposed to torque this bolt to. I got to about 2/3 of final torque when it rounded off. I used a Snap-On 5-75, so 30 was well within the ideal range. Both bolt and drive were very wet at this point, so I'm guessing that's it. Thankfully, there's extractors for this, and all the room to work in.
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Engine drain plug has the same thread and pitch (M12 x 1.25). As I didn't want a repeat, I took my original engine oil drain plug (surplus from when I switched to a magnetic plug after the first change), which has the same thread and pitch, and cut off the tip be the same length as the original transmission plug. I played it safe since you have the plastic standpipe in that same recess, and didn't want to crush it. Advantage? It's a real bolt. Caveat: Toyota probably used the hex key setup to prevent stripping pan threads from those that ugga-dugga their drain bolts.
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The transmission pan has a recess for the drain bolt. If you choose to go my route above, the bolt head wont be lower than the rest of the pan.
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I suspect most of you won't get to try this for another 10 years, maybe never for some. That said, I uploaded these pics to the site so they don't disappear a la Photobucket. I also deliberately didn't touch on what fluid to use as we're all adults here.
One More Tip: Don't forget to release the pin from your thermostat plunger!!