Transmission fluid change

[berry802]

Circling back. Thank you to @EOD Guy - I appreciate the PDF you posted. It has the supplemental sections popped open which is needed to do this properly. Tip: If you're archiving these transmission docs, make sure you grab the more detailed one, which I also attached.

The process itself is described very well in the document. As good or even better than Mercedes' WIS in terms of details, and hammers out any ambiguity in the descriptions. So I'll keep this limited to things I learned and experienced outside of the provided document.

Access is not an issue for any part of this job. You don't need more clearance than what the truck already provides (maybe). I slid myself under there and was ready to go. No panels to remove but I don't have the upgraded skid plate. The drain plug takes a 6mm hex key (more on this later) and the fill plug (o-ring; no crush washer) is a 24mm bolt. Plenty of room to swing a breaker bar in both cases, but have some extensions available.
View attachment 13116

Transmission is level at stock configuration. Photo may not show it, but the bubble gets final say. Pardon the parallax in this picture.
View attachment 13115

Use an extended-length allen key to hold the thermostat plunger in. I tried a large paperclip, but it was too flimsy that I couldn't get it through all the way. The extended length of the allen key also helped, this one a 1.25mm measured at the flats. Tip: This was probably the hardest part of the job, and it wasn't hard at all. "Hard" as in you have 10 cars in front of you at Starbucks hard. You just need to think through the exercise is all. There was no "dust cap" like the PDF states, and it's on the right side of the vehicle. Car's right.
View attachment 13118

Get ready to sit and wait. The warm-up procedure can take time if your ambient temp is low, like in the morning. At 60degF ambient, mine took about 20min to warm up. Thankfully I had a coffee and this forum to entertain myself. Tip: You'll know that you successfully entered temp check/idle up mode when the "D" goes away from the cluster and a couple sensors are deactivated. When the transmission is up to temp, the "D" will appear solid, and the engine fans will switch to high. You might miss the "D" coming on, but the fans kicking on is an event I guarantee will get your attention. If the "D" is blinking, you are outside of the recommended fill temp.
View attachment 13119

Have a spare plug handy. I found the 6mm hex key drive on the drain plug a bit lacking given the 30ft-lbs (fill plug 29ft-lbs) you're supposed to torque this bolt to. I got to about 2/3 of final torque when it rounded off. I used a Snap-On 5-75, so 30 was well within the ideal range. Both bolt and drive were very wet at this point, so I'm guessing that's it. Thankfully, there's extractors for this, and all the room to work in.
View attachment 13120

View attachment 13121

Engine drain plug has the same thread and pitch (M12 x 1.25). As I didn't want a repeat, I took my original engine oil drain plug (surplus from when I switched to a magnetic plug after the first change), which has the same thread and pitch, and cut off the tip be the same length as the original transmission plug. I played it safe since you have the plastic standpipe in that same recess, and didn't want to crush it. Advantage? It's a real bolt. Caveat: Toyota probably used the hex key setup to prevent stripping pan threads from those that ugga-dugga their drain bolts.
View attachment 13122

The transmission pan has a recess for the drain bolt. If you choose to go my route above, the bolt head wont be lower than the rest of the pan.
View attachment 13123

I suspect most of you won't get to try this for another 10 years, maybe never for some. That said, I uploaded these pics to the site so they don't disappear a la Photobucket. I also deliberately didn't touch on what fluid to use as we're all adults here.

One More Tip: Don't forget to release the pin from your thermostat plunger!!

Thank you much for the write-up! Quick question- What does pinning the thermostat plunger do in the process?

 

[cvx5832LC]

^ For the oil in the trans cooler

 

[BreezTrd]

Does anyone know if there is a dipstick for transmission?

 

[EOD Guy]

Does anyone know if there is a dipstick for transmission?

There's not.

 

[BreezTrd]

There's not.

Ohh I see, Thank you for the info..

 

[ERROR504]

I will be honest...i spent 20 mins the other weekend looking for a dipstick and thought I was going crazy lol

 

[jarussell4]

Great write up, thank you.
Quick question: When you mention about the "D" going away, does that mean that the tranny has to be placed on Drive first?

 

[cvx5832LC]

That's right. You enter temp-check mode by shifting N-D and back several times (see PDF). When you enter the mode successfully, the gear indicator goes away as in the above screenshot.

 

[MAC25LC]

just a heads up on posting stuff from TIS, Toyota went after an individual on one of the Tundra Forums for posting TIS info, not saying they will just, be careful, they do monitor the different forums.

 

[Blue Bear]

Circling back. Thank you to @EOD Guy - I appreciate the PDF you posted. It has the supplemental sections popped open which is needed to do this properly. Tip: If you're archiving these transmission docs, make sure you grab the more detailed one, which I also attached.

The process itself is described very well in the document. As good or even better than Mercedes' WIS in terms of details, and hammers out any ambiguity in the descriptions. So I'll keep this limited to things I learned and experienced outside of the provided document.

Access is not an issue for any part of this job. You don't need more clearance than what the truck already provides (maybe). I slid myself under there and was ready to go. No panels to remove but I don't have the upgraded skid plate. The drain plug takes a 6mm hex key (more on this later) and the fill plug (o-ring; no crush washer) is a 24mm bolt. Plenty of room to swing a breaker bar in both cases, but have some extensions available.
View attachment 13116

Transmission is level at stock configuration. Photo may not show it, but the bubble gets final say. Pardon the parallax in this picture.
View attachment 13115

Use an extended-length allen key to hold the thermostat plunger in. I tried a large paperclip, but it was too flimsy that I couldn't get it through all the way. The extended length of the allen key also helped, this one a 1.25mm measured at the flats. Tip: This was probably the hardest part of the job, and it wasn't hard at all. "Hard" as in you have 10 cars in front of you at Starbucks hard. You just need to think through the exercise is all. There was no "dust cap" like the PDF states, and it's on the right side of the vehicle. Car's right.
View attachment 13118

Get ready to sit and wait. The warm-up procedure can take time if your ambient temp is low, like in the morning. At 60degF ambient, mine took about 20min to warm up. Thankfully I had a coffee and this forum to entertain myself. Tip: You'll know that you successfully entered temp check/idle up mode when the "D" goes away from the cluster and a couple sensors are deactivated. When the transmission is up to temp, the "D" will appear solid, and the engine fans will switch to high. You might miss the "D" coming on, but the fans kicking on is an event I guarantee will get your attention. If the "D" is blinking, you are outside of the recommended fill temp.
View attachment 13119

Have a spare plug handy. I found the 6mm hex key drive on the drain plug a bit lacking given the 30ft-lbs (fill plug 29ft-lbs) you're supposed to torque this bolt to. I got to about 2/3 of final torque when it rounded off. I used a Snap-On 5-75, so 30 was well within the ideal range. Both bolt and drive were very wet at this point, so I'm guessing that's it. Thankfully, there's extractors for this, and all the room to work in.
View attachment 13120

View attachment 13121

Engine drain plug has the same thread and pitch (M12 x 1.25). As I didn't want a repeat, I took my original engine oil drain plug (surplus from when I switched to a magnetic plug after the first change), which has the same thread and pitch, and cut off the tip be the same length as the original transmission plug. I played it safe since you have the plastic standpipe in that same recess, and didn't want to crush it. Advantage? It's a real bolt. Caveat: Toyota probably used the hex key setup to prevent stripping pan threads from those that ugga-dugga their drain bolts.
View attachment 13122

The transmission pan has a recess for the drain bolt. If you choose to go my route above, the bolt head wont be lower than the rest of the pan.
View attachment 13123

I suspect most of you won't get to try this for another 10 years, maybe never for some. That said, I uploaded these pics to the site so they don't disappear a la Photobucket. I also deliberately didn't touch on what fluid to use as we're all adults here.

One More Tip: Don't forget to release the pin from your thermostat plunger!!

Nice write-up. Two questions -

1. How much fluid is required for a drain and fill? (I can't find this anywhere in the Toyota docs.)
2. Does the transmission pan drain plug have a crush washer?

Thank you!

 

[cvx5832LC]

1) Takes 4.1 quarts for a drain and fill. This is after you reach the top of the standpipe. It’s in the docs, but make sure you have the right one as I’ve seen several versions floating around
2) Yes there is a crush washer

 

[Masbirdies]

If I am reading correctly, there is no reason to remove the plastic overflow pipe, correct?

 

[cvx5832LC]

You need to remove it to drain the most out of the pan. If you're just checking for level then no, it can stay in. But the transmission needs to be at the specified operating temp. The Konami code to which is in the doc in post #13.

 

[Masbirdies]

You need to remove it to drain the most out of the pan. If you're just checking for level then no, it can stay in. But the transmission needs to be at the specified operating temp. The Konami code to which is in the doc in post #13.

Gotcha, so remove to drain, put it back in with the plug, fill, bring the trans to optimal temp, remove drain but leave the pipe in place when checking level....correct?

 

[cvx5832LC]

Gotcha, so remove to drain, put it back in with the plug, fill, bring the trans to optimal temp, remove drain but leave the pipe in place when checking level....correct?

Nailed it. The only thing missing in that summary is to keep the plug out while you fill it to the top of the standpipe. That's now the base fill. Put the plug back in, add the recommended amount based on the chart above, then get it to temp, then open the plug again to get to proper level. That sounds like a lot, but isn't.

Take your time and start with a cool truck. There's enough time before you get the trans to the right temp, so there's time to think and re-think what you're doing as it's happening.

 

[Blue Bear]

Nailed it. The only thing missing in that summary is to keep the plug out while you fill it to the top of the standpipe. That's now the base fill. Put the plug back in, add the recommended amount based on the chart above, then get it to temp, then open the plug again to get to proper level. That sounds like a lot, but isn't.

Take your time and start with a cool truck. There's enough time before you get the trans to the right temp, so there's time to think and re-think what you're doing as it's happening.

After reading your instructions I went back to re-read the TIS procedure. Based on my reading and what you've said, this is what it sounds like is happening:

1. Drain transmission fluid (remove standpipe, then reinstall standpipe.)
2. Fill transmission fluid until the fluid just begins to drip out of standpipe, then install drain plug.
3. Add an additional 4.1 qts of transmission fluid.
4. Bring the transmission fluid up to the proper operating temperature.
5. Remove the drain plug and allow any excess fluid to drain out of the standpipe.
6. Reinstall and torque both the drain and fill plugs with new crush washers.

Is that correct?

And, if you add 4.1 qts after the initial fill, how much transmission fluid did you need in total? Was 5 qts enough? More?

 

[cvx5832LC]

After reading your instructions I went back to re-read the TIS procedure. Based on my reading and what you've said, this is what it sounds like is happening:

1. Drain transmission fluid (remove standpipe, then reinstall standpipe.)
2. Fill transmission fluid until the fluid just begins to drip out of standpipe, then install drain plug.
3. Add an additional 4.1 qts of transmission fluid.
4. Bring the transmission fluid up to the proper operating temperature.
5. Remove the drain plug and allow any excess fluid to drain out of the standpipe.
6. Reinstall and torque both the drain and fill plugs with new crush washers.

Is that correct?

And, if you add 4.1 qts after the initial fill, how much transmission fluid did you need in total? Was 5 qts enough? More?

to a T! I had 6 or 7 if I remember correctly. Because you need to account for the oil to fill it to the top of the standpipe, before the 4.1 quarts begins. That said, I remember wasting a lot when I cracked the plug open after it got to temp, so the amounts by Toyota are probably on the conservative side.

Additionally, the hybrid motor casing itself has a drain plug. If you're doing that too, then it's 6.9 quarts on top of the base fill.

WeberAuto covers this drivetrain extensively here. At ~13min he covers the lubrication of the hybrid motor assembly and exactly what you'll encounter under there.

 

[Blue Bear]

to a T! I had 6 or 7 if I remember correctly. Because you need to account for the oil to fill it to the top of the standpipe, before the 4.1 quarts begins. That said, I remember wasting a lot when I cracked the plug open after it got to temp, so the amounts by Toyota are probably on the conservative side.

Additionally, the hybrid motor casing itself has a drain plug. If you're doing that too, then it's 6.9 quarts on top of the base fill.

WeberAuto covers this drivetrain extensively here. At ~13min he covers the lubrication of the hybrid motor assembly and exactly what you'll encounter under there.

View attachment 68919

I'm just wondering if "removal and installation of the hybrid module assembly" means draining the fluid from both the trransmission fluid pan and the hybrid module assemble pan? The wording suggests something more, but I don't know.

Has anyone drained the fluid from both the transmission and the hybrid module and refilled?

 

[cvx5832LC]

I'm now at 57k miles so due in about 3k since I planned to do it again at 60k, but this time I'm including the hybrid module drain. I'll report the quantities I use here for what it's worth. I do commute with this thing so it might be sooner than later.

 

[Masbirdies]

Nailed it. The only thing missing in that summary is to keep the plug out while you fill it to the top of the standpipe. That's now the base fill. Put the plug back in, add the recommended amount based on the chart above, then get it to temp, then open the plug again to get to proper level. That sounds like a lot, but isn't.

Take your time and start with a cool truck. There's enough time before you get the trans to the right temp, so there's time to think and re-think what you're doing as it's happening.

Thanks! I've done this on a Tacoma and Tundra before. Don't remember the standpipe in either of those so it was throwing me a curve ball.