Rear seat rattle on the floor catch?

[southGAcruiser]

Guys

I think I may have found the issues without pulling any plastic trim. Usually rattles come from lower places on the car and we pick them up in our ears. With that being said...I took the bottom bolt that holds the seatbelt to the bpillar. When I removed it, I stuck my finger in there and realized there is a metal-on-metal layer that is not welded together. You can put your finger in the hole and make the tin metal sound with it. I stuck some 3M tape in there and around the bolt where it holds those pieces together and that seemed to have stopped the tin metal sound issue. It has taken 3 weeks to find that crap.

 

[johnny burb]

Guys

I think I may have found the issues without pulling any plastic trim. Usually rattles come from lower places on the car and we pick them up in our ears. With that being said...I took the bottom bolt that holds the seatbelt to the bpillar. When I removed it, I stuck my finger in there and realized there is a metal-on-metal layer that is not welded together. You can put your finger in the hole and make the tin metal sound with it. I stuck some 3M tape in there and around the bolt where it holds those pieces together and that seemed to have stopped the tin metal sound issue. It has taken 3 weeks to find that crap.

Hello, thanks for posting this. I’ve been chasing this metal on metal sound for 2 months and it’s driving me crazy. Sorry, I’m not quite following your solution did you happen to take any pics as to what you did exactly? I’m looking at my LC but can’t visualize what you did exactly. Thank you!

 

[southGAcruiser]

Hello, thanks for posting this. I’ve been chasing this metal on metal sound for 2 months and it’s driving me crazy. Sorry, I’m not quite following your solution did you happen to take any pics as to what you did exactly? I’m looking at my LC but can’t visualize what you did exactly. Thank you!

I have not taken any pictures. I plan on checking the passenger side too. All I did on the driver side was put 3m tape between the 2 pieces of metal within the pillar. It’s super thin metal and easy to slide some in.

 

[johnny burb]

I have not taken any pictures. I plan on checking the passenger side too. All I did on the driver side was put 3m tape between the 2 pieces of metal within the pillar. It’s super thin metal and easy to slide some in.

Ok thanks. So you just had to pry the plastic cover off I assume?

 

[southGAcruiser]

Ok thanks. So you just had to pry the plastic cover off I assume?

I thought I fixed it but it’s back. I am going to try and pull the B PILLER and drivers door panel and see if I can find it by driving it.

 

[FirstEditionLC2024]

The dreaded rattle is driving me nuts. I pulled apart my interior plastic trim from inside rear quarter panel, rear passenger door, B pillar seatbelt assembly, and padded every potential source of rattle. I purchased a door striker plastic guard as well as tried rubber tape on the catch to no avail. I padded the rear seat latch and rear seatbelt lower anchor per other suggestions. The rattle is coming from the door. This 250 series LC is trash. Sounds like a cheap aluminum can. It's build quality is nowhere near the build quality of my 21’ 200 series. I have a video of the rattle over some dirt roads with small bumps. One video is with the window down and the other with it up. I'm holding the phone over my left shoulder recording (video file too large to upload on forum). I planned to bring this to the dealer and have them address it, but it sounds like they are incompetent and I don't have time to bring it in to them 2-3 times. I believe the door seal is not up to the task and there’s too much play in the door and it’s clicking metal on metal. I want to put a sledge hammer through the door and hope a new replacement won’t have the same rattle. Has anyone had a dealer address this properly? Surely, there’s got to be a TSB on this common problem. Otherwise, I have a black on black 2024 First Edition with 4,200 miles for sale.

 

[FirstEditionLC2024]

Partial fix. I did all of the other suggestions from other posts. Thank you for the suggestions. I still had the dreaded rattle. I finally have a definitive source and fix. Well two. #1 culprit is metal on metal contact inside the door. If you pound the outside of the door over the drivers side passenger door near the upper door hinge you will hear a tap. It’s the outside door panel clicking against inner bracing (see photos/red). I took off the door panel (again) and wedged sound deadening foam in the groove between inner door bracing and outer body panel (circles in green). Hopefully, that does the trick. I noticed one possible source on the backside of the interior door panel near the bottom (red circle). It’s a cheap bracket that holds the sound deadening material (go figure). I padded the backside of it (see pictures-green circle) and the sound is gone from that area. I also added some 3M double sided foam tape below window frame seals to add tension. I still hear a click over subtle bumps and washboard roads.

 

[ultane]

The dreaded rattle is driving me nuts. I pulled apart my interior plastic trim from inside rear quarter panel, rear passenger door, B pillar seatbelt assembly, and padded every potential source of rattle. I purchased a door striker plastic guard as well as tried rubber tape on the catch to no avail. I padded the rear seat latch and rear seatbelt lower anchor per other suggestions. The rattle is coming from the door. This 250 series LC is trash. Sounds like a cheap aluminum can. It's build quality is nowhere near the build quality of my 21’ 200 series. I have a video of the rattle over some dirt roads with small bumps. One video is with the window down and the other with it up. I'm holding the phone over my left shoulder recording (video file too large to upload on forum). I planned to bring this to the dealer and have them address it, but it sounds like they are incompetent and I don't have time to bring it in to them 2-3 times. I believe the door seal is not up to the task and there’s too much play in the door and it’s clicking metal on metal. I want to put a sledge hammer through the door and hope a new replacement won’t have the same rattle. Has anyone had a dealer address this properly? Surely, there’s got to be a TSB on this common problem. Otherwise, I have a black on black 2024 First Edition with 4,200 miles for sale.

What dealer in Florida?

 

[EOD Guy]

I'm wondering if there was supposed to be "panel bond adhesive" or a sealer applied there......... Mine doesn't have a rattle but If I ever have to take the panel off I will have a look see.

 

[FirstEditionLC2024]

What dealer in Florida?

No dealer. I installed the sound deadening myself. Also, I still hear a faint rattle that sounds like the glass in the track while going over small bumps. The rest of the door sounds solid. Terribly frustrating.

 

[FirstEditionLC2024]

I'm wondering if there was supposed to be "panel bond adhesive" or a sealer applied there......... Mine doesn't have a rattle but If I ever have to take the panel off I will have a look see.

Update: The rattle is back! Now it sounds like the actually glass rattling in the window frame. The rest of the door is solid. Did anyone else or their dealership discover anything with the window or door seal similar to TRD Jon Tundra front window? I added weather stripping to the door and it did not fix the rattle on LC.

 

[southGAcruiser]

Has anyone found a fix to wear? This rattle is coming from?

 

[FirstEditionLC2024]

Has anyone found a fix to wear? This rattle is coming from?

I still have it. I checked the First Edition roof rack attachment points and there is no play or rattle. Another post mentioned the rear drivers side grab handle. However, even with tension on the handle and temporarily wedged a dense foam pad in between it rattled somewhere in the door/glass channel. TRD Jon YouTube channel brought his LC into dealer and they “could not recreate it” so no fix. This is terrible. I ordered a thicker MD rubber seal to make sure there’s no play in the door from cheap seals. After that, it’s going to the dealer to see if they can localize it. Anyone else have any ideas/updated solution?

 

[FirstEditionLC2024]

Sometimes over rougher patches of road I am hearing a rattle which I am pretty sure is where it latches to the little bar on the floor. The little catch for the latch. You can’t really reproduce it shaking the seat but over rougher roads it’s pretty annoying. Anyone else had this issue? My Landcruiser is a little over a week old and I’m not sure if I should take it in or not because I already had a rattle worked out on the seatbelt piller in back at the dealer.

Can those latches even be adjusted? Just curious if anyone else had similar issue and what you did with it. I’ve heard of wrapping tape like electrical tape around the catch to dampen the metal to metal contact. Also heard putting blankets or towels under seat then closing to crest more upward tension against the lock. Not sure I should have to do this on a new vehicle but if it can be adjusted somehow then I guess I could do another dealer visit. Any ideas or input?

I went down this rabbit hole too. It's actually coming from the B pillar. I had a 2024 LC First Edition and was part of the initial B-pillar noise write-ups. The seatbelt assembly was only part of the tapping. The metal panels deep in the B pillar needed to be tap-welded. They clank and sound like metal cooking sheets tapping over certain bumps and undulations. I removed the B-pillar plastic covers (upper and lower). I used a blow hammer and a large flathead screwdriver to tamp weld the edges of overlapping metal. This worked! Unfortunately, other areas in the ceiling required me to remove my entire roof liner to access. I finally traded it in. I love the LC250 and came back to the forums to see if it's worth buying a 2026. Apparently, it's still an issue. Such a shame. I was hoping for better news. On a side note I looked into the door striker, door mirror, removed and sound deadened door card with no improvement. I also padded the rear seat latches with rubber tape. The tap welds of the b pillar metal panels helped the most.