Reading Default Codes with Carista/OBDLinkMX+

[Stalactically Gupid]

I realized today that I could use the Carista App with my 3yr old OBDLink MX+ and was able to turn off seat belt chimes, auto-open windows and a few other things. I then decided to read default codes, thinking there would be none (silly me). 15 default codes. Here's a few of them - Anyone know if this is simply because LC250 isn't fully supported on Carista yet, or that I am using OBD Link, or would these just be codes that really mean nothing? Thanks

 

[MSINAL]

Disclaimer: i know audis well, Toyota new to me. Generally, you shouldnt have any error codes and obdii is a standard. Perhaps dealer worked on it and didnt reset the codes afterwards? Uncommon. The circuit open/short means either something was unplugged and not reset after reconnection, or something could be wrong. I would not totally ignore them until you can verify they are bogus. Maybe ask dealer at next service, dont reset them so they can see full history. I will check mine.

Edit: i checked mine at 1300 miles. No codes.

 

[EOD Guy]

IDK if transportation movements cause DTC codes or not......... during dealer prep, there is a fuse that must be inserted into the fuse box before delivery to a customer and any DTC's deleted (after verifying there isn't an actual fault).

 

[ultane]

Maybe I need to buy a code reader…

 

[Captain Trips]

I realized today that I could use the arista App with my 3yr old OBDLink MX+ and was able to turn off seat belt chimes, auto-open windows and a few other things. I then decided to read default codes, thinking there would be none (silly me). 15 default codes. Here's a few of them - Anyone know if this is simply because LC250 isn't fully supported on Carista yet, or that I am using OBD Link, or would these just be codes that really mean nothing? Thanks

The LC 250 is fully supported on Carista. It is just not listed by name. All the ECU’s are supported as they are the same across multiple Toyotas.

As far as the default codes, probably every land cruiser that leaves the dealer has all these faults listed. It’s probably due to the fact that when the car arrives at the stealership, it is not fully set up or configured. There is a process that they’re supposed to follow which they skip a lot of steps on as in setting tire pressures and calibrating the front seat.

 

[kmershly]

I know BMWs very well (I own three and work on them myself), this is my first Toyota.

With that said, generally lost communication codes mean that at some point the battery was disconnected and the modules due to loss of power lost communication. The only one which is a little odd is the steering angle sensor short to ground or open, which I am not sure a battery disconnect would cause.

Generally, the loss of comm codes go away after a code clear reset, but again that is based on my knowledge of BMWs and not automotive knowledge in general.

Edited to correct the spelling of ground.

 

[kmershly]

Out of curiosity, I just checked my LC with my Launch X431 Pro (think fancier Carista) and there are no codes present in either generic OBDII or in the Toyota specific software.

Not sure what to say, maybe in the delivery process, the battery is disconnected and the dealer forgot to clear all codes during the PDI (pre-delivery inspection), with regards to the steering angle sensor that one is odd, with a fancier scan tool you could see what data (if any) the steering angle sensor is producing, but I do not think that Carista has that sort of functionality.

 

[ultane]

There is a process that they’re supposed to follow which they skip a lot of steps on as in setting tire pressures and calibrating the front seat.

Miss Daisy had 49 or 50 PSI in all her Michelins when I picked her up at the dealership. And her front seat has lost the calibration set up at the dealership. I need to dig into the owners manual and figure out how to do it again.

 

[kmershly]

Miss Daisy had 49 or 50 PSI in all her Michelins when I picked her up at the dealership. And her front seat has lost the calibration set up at the dealership. I need to dig into the owners manual and figure out how to do it again.

When I picked up my LC at the dealership it had not been through PDI yet, it still had the protective film applied at the factory on her.

I said, great, do not touch it, I went home grabbed my Scan Tool, went back to the dealership, plugged into the LC, took it out of transport mode and drove it home with the protective film still on it.

I then PDI the car myself (lower the tire pressure, topped off the fluids, etc.) because that way I could ensure that it was done properly and without the swirls in the clear coat that would have undoubtedly been installed by the dealer techs.