Offset
- Thread starter MG6
- Start date
Factory is 60mm
~45mm pushes them out to the edge
20mm they’ll will poke
Also I see this is your first post, welcome. I’m very new too but I’ve been watching a ton of videos on the subject.
For my 1958 I settled on Sequoia Pro wheels with a 47.5mm offset and 275/70 Toyo Open Country’s.
Ed Martin Toyota makes a ton of videos including one on every factory truck wheel that is available from Toyota currently.
Obviously this is only factory options but it should give you what you need to know! Good luck.
~45mm pushes them out to the edge
20mm they’ll will poke
Also I see this is your first post, welcome. I’m very new too but I’ve been watching a ton of videos on the subject.
For my 1958 I settled on Sequoia Pro wheels with a 47.5mm offset and 275/70 Toyo Open Country’s.
Ed Martin Toyota makes a ton of videos including one on every factory truck wheel that is available from Toyota currently.
Obviously this is only factory options but it should give you what you need to know! Good luck.
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You can get offset either with wheels or with spacers. Watch the video that was posted to find your preferred offset via Toyo wheels. If you want your wheels/tires to poke out far, you will need to look at 3rd party vendors like Method. This website lets you play with offset to see how far it will poke out - offset Calc
I used this website before I decided on 45+ offset Toyota wheels and Toyo 275/65/18 AT3 tires. It really gives you an idea of how everything will look before buying.
Wheel Offset Calculator
Use our wheel offset calculator to visualize the new tire position when changing wheel and tire sizes. Convert wheel offset and backspacing to calculate the correct setup for your vehicle.
tiresize.com
As mentioned, 45 offset (like the Tacoma TRD wheels) brings the sidewalls out right to the edges of the wheel wells. I went with slightly larger than OEM tires in 275/70/18 and here are some photos of how they sit:
Some people want more sidewall sticking out, but for my application (not lifted, no additional armour or heavy accessories) I didn't see the benefit of having tires fling mud and gravel up the sides of the vehicle.
On a 1958 this combo will stick out more, as the flares are narrower. Ours is a Premium with the slightly wider flares
Some people want more sidewall sticking out, but for my application (not lifted, no additional armour or heavy accessories) I didn't see the benefit of having tires fling mud and gravel up the sides of the vehicle.
On a 1958 this combo will stick out more, as the flares are narrower. Ours is a Premium with the slightly wider flares
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1958 driver here, also running 285s. The above info is all good info, but it’s a little more complicated than what is shown.
My +47.5mm wheels w/ 285s poke. If you want flush on the 1958 fenders, and are committed to 285s, you really need to stay with +50mm or better offset. Offsets are measured from hub to centerpoint of tire mounting section, but not all manufacturers are the same and subtle deviations exist. A 20mm Method may have a different poke than a 20mm Black Rhino. Additionally, the tire width is the biggest contributor to your dilemma. A 285 on a 47.5mm offset already has a tight clearance with your suspension. A 285 on a 60mm could very well be zero clearance or rub. I wouldn’t do a 285 any closer than what I currently have going on.
Just additive info to educate your decision. Not even going to nerd out on wheel widths and related bulge characteristics that also impact the clearance concern.
See this thread here:
Tire (and a few wheel) options spreadsheet
it really should be pinned at this point because the work @Markarian421 has done is gold.
My +47.5mm wheels w/ 285s poke. If you want flush on the 1958 fenders, and are committed to 285s, you really need to stay with +50mm or better offset. Offsets are measured from hub to centerpoint of tire mounting section, but not all manufacturers are the same and subtle deviations exist. A 20mm Method may have a different poke than a 20mm Black Rhino. Additionally, the tire width is the biggest contributor to your dilemma. A 285 on a 47.5mm offset already has a tight clearance with your suspension. A 285 on a 60mm could very well be zero clearance or rub. I wouldn’t do a 285 any closer than what I currently have going on.
Just additive info to educate your decision. Not even going to nerd out on wheel widths and related bulge characteristics that also impact the clearance concern.
See this thread here:
Tire (and a few wheel) options spreadsheet
it really should be pinned at this point because the work @Markarian421 has done is gold.
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Not sure if mentioned here, but in Japan "poke" is not street legal, and the JDM aftermarket wheels have a lot of higher offsets than USA-based mfgs. You can check out the JDM LC250 wheel videos on YouTube to get an idea of how they do fitments without "poke". They usually stick to 275s, but there are some who go wider.
"Poke" comes in degrees too- I have driven behind a few vehicles with excessive poke flinging rocks...at my windshield 
:ducks instinctively:
:ducks instinctively:
The factory Trailhunter rims 20mm offset will poke the most (in a factory Toyota option). Hopefully OP has watched the video I posted by now and can see the difference. A 20mm offset on a 1958 is gonna look pretty wide…. But to each his own!
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