All good info, thanks. I've been on some verrrry long 20+ mile cruel washboard stretches in NW Colorado where I just let it rip, without airing down, to 40 mph or more but that was in a 8000 pound conversion van. Not that I ever intend to do that again.
Offroading 101
- Thread starter max2me
- Start date
Make sure you can repair or swap a flat and just get on the trail.
Your lowered tire pressure depends on the trail, your tires load rating, and how much shit youre hauling in the car.
Most people spend tons of money to go on the trail in the future. Go on the trail now and spend the money in the future.
Your lowered tire pressure depends on the trail, your tires load rating, and how much shit youre hauling in the car.
Most people spend tons of money to go on the trail in the future. Go on the trail now and spend the money in the future.
Exactly.
I went to my local 4x4 club, and with one of the members, I made a "footprint" of the front and rear tires. Using metal rulers pinched between the ground and the tire, we created a table showing the length of the footprint at various tire pressures — from normal pressure down to 4.3 psi (0.3 bar). This gave me a good idea of how the footprint size varies with pressure for my specific setup.
Surprisingly, there wasn’t much variation between 40 and 20 psi. The footprints only started to noticeably increase between 10 and 5 psi, with a very clear difference for each psi drop. That’s why it’s important to use an accurate low-pressure gauge.
Running such low pressures (below 10 psi) does come with limitations. First, I lose ground clearance. I’ve also been told to monitor tire temperature due to increased flex and speed, though that depends on the specific tire. Additionally, the power required to move the vehicle increases significantly — not to mention the common issue of de-beading.
These very low pressures are usually used on sand but can also be effective in mud. However, I often use snow chains when driving in muddy conditions.
Welcome to the asylum max2me.
I lived in Caldwell for ~15 years, but moved away 10 years ago. I did a lot of riding (R1200GS Adventure) on less than good roads. My current GF and I are coming out west in a couple of months, and I want to show her around the ‘off road’ areas as well as show her the redwoods.
Any suggestions?
When I lived in Idaho, the common knowledge thing that I didn’t know was, always drive in 2WD when off road. If you do, you may eventually get stuck. Then, and only then is when you select 4 wheel drive (high), and then only proceed to 4 wheel drive (low) if you cannot get unstuck in 4 high..
If you get stuck in 4 wheel drive, you are basically screwed, unless someone is there to pull you out.
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I would just use 2WD until I get stuck. Then use 4H. If that doesn’t work, center and rear differential will both get locked, and I will be in 4L.
But that’s just me.
I might be wrong, just ask my X.. (I am so glad she is gone!
)
1) 4H, center diff unlocked (Normal street-driving mode)
2) 4H, center diff locked (if you start spinning any tire you should lock the center diff so the torsen doesn't have to keep working to try to send more torque to the axle with traction. Better yet, lock the center diff when you first get on any lose surface and then you're driving around just like a normal part-time 4WD in 4H.)
3) 4L, center diff locked
4) 4L, center diff locked + rear diff locked. Unlock the rear diff again as soon as it's not needed.
You can throw in any of the MTS/CRAWL stuff wherever you want, but the above is how I would do it with just the mechanical options.
Then throw in the caveat that every situation is different and nothing works every time, etc.
Center differential can be unlocked in low range also
