Liftgate Lights On/Off?

[Mikie]

What is this work-around?

I don't think I'm concerned enough to mess with wiring or add a switch, but may be worth keeping a carabiner in the truck just in case I need it.

The carabiner work around is actually pretty good... Once the liftgate has opened, you simply (gently) push a mid-size carabiner into the slot of the door catch (see photo). When you insert the biner, the clasp automatically closes around it, holding it in place -- and the car thinks that the door is now closed, so the lights go off.

When you later hit the door open/close button, the clasp releases the biner (but does not close the door). Hit the button again, and the door closes as normally.

Parenthetically, I put the reflective lanyard on my biner just so it's easier to see when it's hanging there attached to the door, as well as finding it when it falls to the ground after you hit the door open button (the first time).

 

[EOD Guy]

This is great stuff -- thanks!!!

I've been doing a bunch of research, and at this point I don't like the idea of installing the new center light in the liftgate. Problem is, the light has an electronic (vs. mechanical) switch, so it always defaults to light on, at brightest intensity, when the liftgate is opened. So I need to always remember to turn it off when I open (and leave open) the liftgate during the day. (And not just me -- if I'm camping with friends or my girlfriend, they also need to be careful to always turn off the light.)

But on the positive side -- the center light seems to work great, it's easy to turn on or off (just touch it), and has full intensity range control. AND -- per BoredomFestival, the liftgate is pre-wired for the light -- no need to run any wire. (Not sure if this is for LC LC only, or for the 1958 as well). I'm guessing that the plug that he used was pre-wired to support the optional factory-installed liftgate lights. If so, then there won't be any automatic timed shut off (which is the problem with the factory-installed lights). Alternatively, if you install the center light using the supplied wiring harness, it sources the power at the driver's side cargo light, and I think that is on a timer to turn off after 20 minutes.

So far as my situation is concerned, even if I decide to install the center light, I still need to remove the liftgate interior panel in order to disable the OEM lights. Given that, I think that overall, the switch installation is the best bet. I'll never have any reason (that I can foresee) to turn the light on during the day, and thus, I needn't have any concerns about remembering to turn it off during the day. Generally, I would always keep the light switched off, and I'd only use it occasionally at night (usually I wouldn't even need it since I'm wearing my headlamp). So (relatively) no worries.

Regarding your recommendations for the switch installation...
- I agree, I will only do a simple switch on/off function (and not hook up the switch light). In this case, the ground wire to the switch should not be necessary, right?
- One of my main concerns was finding the correct splice point, but it sounds like this should be pretty straight forward, since my understanding is that there is a simple two-wire run that is upstream of the factory Y connector (that splits the circuit out to the two lights), and I just need to connect the switch in just upstream of that. In that I'm not powering the light on the switch, presumably it shouldn't even make any difference which of the two wires I cut and route to/from the switch.
- My other concern was how hard it might be to remove the liftgate interior panel. Since it's large and overhead, it will for sure be more awkward and difficult than removing something like a door panel. Were there any gotcha's or lessons learned from when you pulled yours off?

One thing I am still confused about -- I do not understand the usage of the Positaps that you mentioned (nor did I understand their apparent use (circled) in the photo you provided). My understanding is that, per your wiring diagram, I'm just going to cut one of the two wires upstream of the Y connector, and then route that wire to and from the switch. So rather than tapping into anything, I need to make two wire connections (i.e. the red wire to the green wire that runs to the switch, and the other side of the red wire to the green wire that returns from the switch). A Positap allows you to tap into an existing wire (thus making a T connection) -- but I don't see any use for that here. Am I missing something?

Sorry for the long response here! I really appreciate your help, this is a pretty important problem for me to rectify. I think this info may be useful to others as well, as I know that there are a bunch of folks trying to sort out the optimal cargo area lighting solution.

If you are not using a lighted switch, a ground is not needed. It doesn't matter which OEM wire you splice into, you're just interrupting the "always on" circuit (when the hatch is open).

On one end of a Posi-tap has an internal sharp point that pierces the wire forming a "T" and has a screw cap that will provide a very secure connection. You would leave about 1/8” of exposed insulated wire on one side of the “T” connection (cut wire) and the other side of the “T” running to the wire bundle. The other end of the tap allows you to insert a stripped wire from the switch and also has a screw cap. You would still cut one leg of OEM wires and use a posi-tap on each side of the cut OEM wire to one side of the switch.

If you are comfortable with soldering or solder butt splicing, I wouldn't use posi-taps.......... if your not, the posi-taps can be used in leu of splices. The benefit of a posi-tap...... solder free and would allow it to be removed and the orig wire spliced back together if you wanted to undo it at a later time.

 

[PDPete]

The carabiner work around is actually pretty good... Once the liftgate has opened, you simply (gently) push a mid-size carabiner into the slot of the door catch (see photo). When you insert the biner, the clasp automatically closes around it, holding it in place -- and the car thinks that the door is now closed, so the lights go off.

When you later hit the door open/close button, the clasp releases the biner (but does not close the door). Hit the button again, and the door closes as normally.

Parenthetically, I put the reflective lanyard on my biner just so it's easier to see when it's hanging there attached to the door, as well as finding it when it falls to the ground after you hit the door open button (the first time).

Thanks, I'll check it out... I have a 1958, so manual tailgate, but I assume the unlock button would work the same way to release the carabiner

 

[EOD Guy]

I also installed a modified puddle light for S&Gs. Not very useful except for the comments around camp......LOL

 

[Mikie]

If you are not using a lighted switch, a ground is not needed. It doesn't matter which OEM wire you splice into, you're just interrupting the "always on" circuit (when the hatch is open).

On one end of a Posi-tap has an internal sharp point that pierces the wire forming a "T" and has a screw cap that will provide a very secure connection. You would leave about 1/8” of exposed insulated wire on one side of the “T” connection (cut wire) and the other side of the “T” running to the wire bundle. The other end of the tap allows you to insert a stripped wire from the switch and also has a screw cap. You would still cut one leg of OEM wires and use a posi-tap on each side of the cut OEM wire to one side of the switch.

If you are comfortable with soldering or solder butt splicing, I wouldn't use posi-taps.......... if your not, the posi-taps can be used in leu of splices. The benefit of a posi-tap...... solder free and would allow it to be removed and the orig wire spliced back together if you wanted to undo it at a later time.

Awesome, thanks for the info!

BTW, now I need to chew on one further possibility with this -- instead of continuing to use the power that was provided for the OEM lights, maybe I run new power coming from the driver's side cargo area light (i.e. the same point that the center light kit uses). Then in addition to having switch control for the liftgate lights, I would also have the protection of the car automatically turning the light off (after the liftgate has been open for 20 min).....

 

[Alpha Puppy]

Awesome, thanks for the info!

BTW, now I need to chew on one further possibility with this -- instead of continuing to use the power that was provided for the OEM lights, maybe I run new power coming from the driver's side cargo area light (i.e. the same point that the center light kit uses). Then in addition to having switch control for the liftgate lights, I would also have the protection of the car automatically turning the light off (after the liftgate has been open for 20 min).....

If you want the light to turn off after a timed delay then you could install this programmable timer circuit: Mini timer circuit

 

[Ed1]

If you want the light to turn off after a timed delay then you could install this programmable timer circuit: Mini timer circuit

Great idea! This should have been installed at the factory. I might have to figure out how to install one - or hire @EOD Guy to do it!

For my use case - people at the beach opening up the hatch for food or drinks and not closing it each time - this is needed more than a manual on-off switch.

Not positive, but I think all of the other interior lights do go off after a set time even if the door(s) are left open.

 

[EOD Guy]

Great idea! This should have been installed at the factory. I might have to figure out how to install one - or hire @EOD Guy to do it!

For my use case - people at the beach opening up the hatch for food or drinks and not closing it each time - this is needed more than a manual on-off switch.

Not positive, but I think all of the other interior lights do go off after a set time even if the door(s) are left open.

I had orig thought about putting a timer on it, but then realized I'd be more irritated if the light went off when I needed it vs draining the battery as I would be conscious of it being on and worried about draining the battery and make sure I turn it off etc........... somewhere in the future I do plan on making a "X" voltage cutoff circuit for it and the future exterior roof side lights. (battery voltage drops below 11 volts and the circuit shuts off until it senses 12v again).

 

[novice870]

Hi everyone.

I took delivery of my 2025 LC Last weekend. It's been an adjustment coming from my 4Runner.

One of the only additions to my LC is the lift gate lights. Does anyone know if they can be turned off? Or are they on a timer?

Thanks in advance.

I’m waiting on delivery of my LC. Currently driving a 4Runner. I’m curious what adjustments you’ve noticed so far? Thanks so much!

 

[Mikie]

Great idea! This should have been installed at the factory. I might have to figure out how to install one - or hire @EOD Guy to do it!

For my use case - people at the beach opening up the hatch for food or drinks and not closing it each time - this is needed more than a manual on-off switch.

Not positive, but I think all of the other interior lights do go off after a set time even if the door(s) are left open.

I've decided to go with the on/off switch, but in addition, I'm going to change the power source for the liftgate lights, and will now source the power from the drivers side cargo area light. The latter automatically shuts off after 20 min if the hatch is left open, so even if I leave the liftgate lights switched on, the lights will still automatically go off after 20 min (along with the other cargo area lights).

I will light the illuminated switch button with the same power that I'm using for the liftgate lights -- thus the switch will be lit up while the liftgate lights are still available (have power and can be turned on), and when the cargo lights automatically turn off after 20 min, the switch light will also turn off, which is perfect since the liftgate lights will no longer be available at that point (so the button is "dead").

So I think the illuminated liftgate lights switch behavior will reflect that of the two illuminated door open/close buttons that it's mounted adjacent to.

 

[rand_kuruza]

Hi everyone.

I took delivery of my 2025 LC Last weekend. It's been an adjustment coming from my 4Runner.

One of the only additions to my LC is the lift gate lights. Does anyone know if they can be turned off? Or are they on a timer?

Thanks in advance.

Carabiner works ok it auto release and beeps when it drops carabiner after you press close lift gate.

 

[ERROR504]

Would this carabiner trick help turn off the two small puddle lights on the sides too?

 

[corywf]

If you can drill a hole you can do a switch mod.....LOL I opted to have a lighted switch but totally unnecessary. The wire hook up is super easy with posi-taps.

I assume there are two hatch lights...........
Basically run two wires from a switch to one of the OEM wires (before the factory "Y" connector). Cut one leg of the OEM light wires, attach one of the switch wires to each side of OEM wire you just cut.View attachment 29901

 

[PDPete]

How does one get the carabiner released from the latch once it's in there?

particularly with the manual (non-power) tailgate

 

[EOD Guy]

How does one get the carabiner released from the latch once it's in there?

particularly with the manual (non-power) tailgate

Push the unlock button.........

 

[copernicus]

I've decided to go with the on/off switch, but in addition, I'm going to change the power source for the liftgate lights, and will now source the power from the drivers side cargo area light. The latter automatically shuts off after 20 min if the hatch is left open, so even if I leave the liftgate lights switched on, the lights will still automatically go off after 20 min (along with the other cargo area lights).

I will light the illuminated switch button with the same power that I'm using for the liftgate lights -- thus the switch will be lit up while the liftgate lights are still available (have power and can be turned on), and when the cargo lights automatically turn off after 20 min, the switch light will also turn off, which is perfect since the liftgate lights will no longer be available at that point (so the button is "dead").

So I think the illuminated liftgate lights switch behavior will reflect that of the two illuminated door open/close buttons that it's mounted adjacent to.

which positaps and what switch did you end up using? i'm still trying to wrap my head around all of this wiring since it's not my forte but want to make sure i have all the parts at least.

 

[EOD Guy]

which positaps and what switch did you end up using? i'm still trying to wrap my head around all of this wiring since it's not my forte but want to make sure i have all the parts at least.

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[Mikie]

which positaps and what switch did you end up using? i'm still trying to wrap my head around all of this wiring since it's not my forte but want to make sure i have all the parts at least.

I used the same stuff (I think) as EOD-Guy did:
- Switch (from Amazon): 19mm round pushbutton switch
- Connectors: Positap inline connectors
- Drill bit: 19mm (3/4 inch)

Because I measured some confusing voltages before I installed my switch, I decided to play it safe and rethink my plans, and ended up just doing a VERY basic switch install... I simply cut one of the two leads that go to the pair of tailgate lights, and routed the cut ends to and from the switch. I didn't mess with switch lighting, and didn't install my timer (as originally planned). So it was a very simple installation (from an electronics point of view), and it works great.

That said -- be forewarned, overall this is not a trivial install!!! (Sorry to be discouraging!!)

Attached is a printable doc I made from info on EOD_guy's page re how to remove the liftgate trim panel (I wanted to print off the pics so I could reference them as I work on the car).

Note that while you CAN remove the small switch panel from the tailgate before you remove the tailgate (per the doc), you WON'T be able to detach the two tailgate lights from the tailgate panel before you remove it... So that means that you're going to have to try to detach the lights WHILE you hold the detached tailgate panel at the same time! Not easy, but much easier if you have an extra set of hands available to help!!