🛠️ Member Build DIY cargo drawers with no loss of underneath storage compartments, one-hand opening

Member Build

geomars

New member
Jan 30, 2025
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Santa Cruz
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2014 4Runner
Just finished building and installing cargo drawers that don't restrict access to the existing storage compartments. The drawers are bolted to the metal structure that supports the original cargo floor. The original storage compartment at the rear is now accessible directly from the hatch. I installed an Anderson jack in that area, and that compartment is large enough to hold my Viair compressor, with plenty of space to spare. The original compartment behind the rear seats is now open to the front and easily accessible with the seats folded forward.

I installed a lock on the drawers, but it's mostly for show. The real security is that the drawers are held in place by the hatch door (protected by with a strip of thick spongy weatherstripping on the hatch door). The drawers can't be opened without the fob to open the hatch door. I had a similar arrangement on my 2014 4Runner. I originally used locking drawer slides for these LC drawers, but before I was even finished it became too annoying to need two hands to open the drawers: one to undo the lock lever and one to pull the drawer out. So I drilled out the rivets holding the locking mechanism. Now I can open the drawers with one hand—not have to put things on the ground just to open or close.

The attached photos show the metal structure that the drawers are bolted to, several stages of construction, the rear storage compartment with compressor, front storage area viewed with rear seats folded down.
 

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Looks great, nice job! I’m building something like this as well, but have been debating how to attach it to the floor. Being a climber, naturally I decided on a high-strength rope and carabiner, routed through the 4 tie-down points 😅

I like your idea more though - any tips for marking the drilling positions in your base board?
 
Looks great, nice job! I’m building something like this as well, but have been debating how to attach it to the floor. Being a climber, naturally I decided on a high-strength rope and carabiner, routed through the 4 tie-down points 😅

I like your idea more though - any tips for marking the drilling positions in your base board?
I ended up using 8 bolts: the existing two front threaded holes that held the folding tie-downs and 6 rivnuts (four m6 and two m8). I had to enlarge some of the existing holes to make them the correct size for the rivnuts. You can see the locations of the bolts/washers in one of the photos. If you drill, be careful to use something to keep the drill bit from going too far down and damaging something,

You are correct: finding the locations to drill was tricky. I spent a lot of time measuring to the nearest 1/16" and still ended up perhaps 1/4" off on one or two bolts (still ok, given the large washers). After I had the plywood held in place loosely by 2 bolts, I tried putting black paint on some of the other bolt heads and then tilting the plywood in place. This helped position some of the bolts, but others were too low to transfer the paint. In retrospect, I could have painted the bolts one at a time to get the paint to transfer for all of them,, or used piece of cardboard and make a template, and then transfer to the plywood.
 
Just finished building and installing cargo drawers that don't restrict access to the existing storage compartments. The drawers are bolted to the metal structure that supports the original cargo floor. The original storage compartment at the rear is now accessible directly from the hatch. I installed an Anderson jack in that area, and that compartment is large enough to hold my Viair compressor, with plenty of space to spare. The original compartment behind the rear seats is now open to the front and easily accessible with the seats folded forward.

I installed a lock on the drawers, but it's mostly for show. The real security is that the drawers are held in place by the hatch door (protected by with a strip of thick spongy weatherstripping on the hatch door). The drawers can't be opened without the fob to open the hatch door. I had a similar arrangement on my 2014 4Runner. I originally used locking drawer slides for these LC drawers, but before I was even finished it became too annoying to need two hands to open the drawers: one to undo the lock lever and one to pull the drawer out. So I drilled out the rivets holding the locking mechanism. Now I can open the drawers with one hand—not have to put things on the ground just to open or close.

The attached photos show the metal structure that the drawers are bolted to, several stages of construction, the rear storage compartment with compressor, front storage area viewed with rear seats folded down.
Awesome job geomars!!!
 
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