Dead Battery again!

[cruiser2nv]

Well the battery should last more than a few hours so I would definitely replace it. If you are worried on long trips, or don't want to bring a batter backup system, a solar panel connected to the battery is a nice mod that does not hurt the look and is easy to install. I have one on my 2023 Tacoma, I just let the battery drain as much as I want, zero issues.

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[Overtrail Mike]

Working on the LC today, had the doors open for about 2 hours and the battery went flat again. This is the 4th or 5th time, so out it came and going to replace it with an optima, if I can find one!

I have been having issues with battery and computer as well. I had the back hatch door open for several hours loading up gear for my first off-road trip. Went to shut it using the button on door and would not close. Tried to start the truck but it was completely dead and computer system would not function. Checked the 12v battery and it was 12.3 volts so not dead. I hooked up a portable booster to jumper in the engine compartment and this brought the computer back on-line. I then disconnected booster and tried starting and it worked fine.

Took in to Toyota dealership last Tuesday but they could not replicate the issue so asked me to bring it back in today. This might be a software issue so the dealership is checking with Toyota and further evaluation.

After this happened I have tried to replicate the issue and did have the back hatch go dead and had to manually close but have not had the computer completely shutdown again.

Has anyone else had the same issue with 12v battery charged but computer shutdown and won’t start?

 

[EOD Guy]

It's happened to me several times, One thing to remember if the cables are disconnected the "push to start" switch remembers/retails the last position. So sometimes ya gotta push it twice.

 

[Overtrail Mike]

It's happened to me several times, One thing to remember if the cables are disconnected the "push to start" switch remembers/retails the last position. So sometimes ya gotta push it twice.

If you are talking about the back hatch button I have pushed both buttons 4 to 5 times and sometimes it closes but usually requires a manual close.

Regarding computer shutdown I will report back once the dealer diagnosis is complete. Hopefully they can figure this out as today they could not replicate the issue so asked me to leave the car overnight.

Thanks

 

[EOD Guy]

If you are talking about the back hatch button I have pushed both buttons 4 to 5 times and sometimes it closes but usually requires a manual close.

Regarding computer shutdown I will report back once the dealer diagnosis is complete. Hopefully they can figure this out as today they could not replicate the issue so asked me to leave the car overnight.

Thanks

"push to start" ..... start the engine button.

 

[Overtrail Mike]

"push to start" ..... start the engine button.

Got it. I also pushed this many times to try and start as did Triple A. Once Triple A put a booster on to get the mileage is when the computer system started back up. I then had them disconnect the booster before trying to start and it then started easily.

 

[EOD Guy]

Got it. I also pushed this many times to try and start as did Triple A. Once Triple A put a booster on to get the mileage is when the computer system started back up. I then had them disconnect the booster before trying to start and it then started easily.

Yup, once the 12v gets the computers fired up, the traction battery starts charging the 12v battery. I purchased a high end jump box that stays in the LC for just that reason.

 

[mountaindesert]

Got it. I also pushed this many times to try and start as did Triple A. Once Triple A put a booster on to get the mileage is when the computer system started back up. I then had them disconnect the booster before trying to start and it then started easily.

Why disconnect the booster before starting?
Is there any downside to leaving it hooked up?

What would be the sequence to jump the Land Cruiser?

Hookup booster to 12v battery in cargo area and then disconnect it once the dash comes on, before starting the vehicle?

 

[fhb]

Just curious why not get a warranty replacement from Toyota? Had my 21 Honda CRV battery die in under a year and dealer replaced it. No issues since.

 

[RUN-8]

Just curious why not get a warranty replacement from Toyota? Had my 21 Honda CRV battery die in under a year and dealer replaced it. No issues since.

I can’t speak for @EOD Guy, but the stock battery appears to be a conventional wet cell lead acid battery. If mine goes tits up I see it as an opportunity to upgrade to a more powerful and more durable absorbed glass mat from Odyssey or Optima.

 

[fhb]

I can’t speak for @EOD Guy, but the stock battery appears to be a conventional wet cell lead acid battery. If mine goes tits up I see it as an opportunity to upgrade to a more powerful and more durable absorbed glass mat from Odyssey or Optima.

Ok makes sense. I had my Honda dealer replace the OEM EFB with an AGM type.

 

[EOD Guy]

I can’t speak for @EOD Guy, but the stock battery appears to be a conventional wet cell lead acid battery. If mine goes tits up I see it as an opportunity to upgrade to a more powerful and more durable absorbed glass mat from Odyssey or Optima.

Yepper I now have a spare Toyota wet cell battery.

 

[ultane]

I can’t speak for @EOD Guy, but the stock battery appears to be a conventional wet cell lead acid battery. If mine goes tits up I see it as an opportunity to upgrade to a more powerful and more durable absorbed glass mat from Odyssey or Optima.

I love AGM batteries, but don’t they need a specific charging profile to be fully or adequately charged?

 

[EOD Guy]

I love AGM batteries, but don’t they need a specific charging profile to be fully or adequately charged?

Only if the AGM battery drops below the min voltage for the charger. You can fool the charger by hooking up a second battery, via jumper cables, and it will take a charge (unless it truly is bad).

 

[FirstEditionLC2024]

I had the same issue. I was tracking down a rattle coming from the driver's side B pillar. I had the dome lights on for about 15 minutes. The battery completely died. After I jumped it, there were tons of fault codes. They cleared after 15-20 minutes of driving, but forget using the radio or plugging anything in the rear 120V outlet if the engine isn’t on. I had to jump it, and it seemed fine. However, I always keep a jumper cable battery pack with me. It is not confidence-inspiring. I brought it to AutoZone, and they checked the battery health. They said they would have it replaced under warranty. I agree that Optima is the best. I use the orange top for my motorcycles. However, I will let the dealer replace this battery once to see if it behaves. If not, Optima it is. Did you have to “register/sync” the battery to the vehicle with OBD II or a simple plug-and-play?

 

[EOD Guy]

I had the same issue. I was tracking down a rattle coming from the driver's side B pillar. I had the dome lights on for about 15 minutes. The battery completely died. After I jumped it, there were tons of fault codes. They cleared after 15-20 minutes of driving, but forget using the radio or plugging anything in the rear 120V outlet if the engine isn’t on. I had to jump it, and it seemed fine. However, I always keep a jumper cable battery pack with me. It is not confidence-inspiring. I brought it to AutoZone, and they checked the battery health. They said they would have it replaced under warranty. I agree that Optima is the best. I use the orange top for my motorcycles. However, I will let the dealer replace this battery once to see if it behaves. If not, Optima it is. Did you have to “register/sync” the battery to the vehicle with OBD II or a simple plug-and-play?

I let the dealer replace the OEM battery and I put the Optima in...... now have a spare battery.

It's plug in play, but a plain to wiggle the battery out and back in.

 

[project3way]

Which optima btw? The vehicle battery finder in their site does not list one for ours

 

[EOD Guy]

Which optima btw? The vehicle battery finder in their site does not list one for ours

Optima DH6

 

[Mikie]

What a pain that was! but it fit.......

Optima DH6

View attachment 26176

Thanks for all the great info about replacing the 12V battery -- I plan to do the same for my 2025 LC (also using an Optima Yellowtop DH6). I do a TON of back-country camping and backpacking, mostly solo, and want the system to be as reliable as possible. (I also carry a pair of Noco jump starters.)

Did you have any issues with the Land Cruiser after replacing the battery? Also, am I correct in assuming that the Optima (because it is sealed) will not require a hook-up to the vent tube that was used by the OEM battery?

Thank you!!

 

[EOD Guy]

Thanks for all the great info about replacing the 12V battery -- I plan to do the same for my 2025 LC (also using an Optima Yellowtop DH6). I do a TON of back-country camping and backpacking, mostly solo, and want the system to be as reliable as possible. (I also carry a pair of Noco jump starters.)

Did you have any issues with the Land Cruiser after replacing the battery? Also, am I correct in assuming that the Optima (because it is sealed) will not require a hook-up to the vent tube that was used by the OEM battery?

Thank you!!

The Optima has a vent tube. Since I installed a small solar charger underneath the roof rack, I haven't had the battery go flat.