Ah, I see. I have made peace with this now. I have a 3 bike 1up that is always on the truck. I usually only have 2 bikes, so I can still get in the rear window.
Confirmed solve for Bike rack sensor nonsense
- Thread starter doubleD
- Start date
Yeah, I wouldn't say I've made peace....more like a truce.
I love my 1Up rack and it stays on year round.
If you love your 1up then you haven't tried the new Kuat PistonX!
Just kidding, kind of. My 1up was good but the Kuat is clearly the evolution and massive improvement.
Just kidding, kind of. My 1up was good but the Kuat is clearly the evolution and massive improvement.
Buy a rack that will allow you to lean the rack and bikes.
Here's a video on my Piston X from Kuat.
Toyota can turn the power function off completely (open and close) as well so it will function as a normal lift gate at the point or just power open or close.
In my experience its quite easy if the fob is in your pocket, bend down and it can easy press it. Has happened to me twice now with less than 5000 miles. I don't have a rack but it pretty easy for that to happen.
There are many trailer wiring testers that don’t have trailer brake emulation. It seems the trailer presence detection function is simpler than this “solution” which is designed for testing electric trailer brakes. There are numerous trailers out there that don’t have electric brakes. Probably the LC just checks that some amount of power is used on the lighting circuit(s). I read that some vehicles check that there’s some current used from the 12v pin to the Ground pin.
If that’s what Toyota does, try a large impedance resistor maybe start with 12k ohm. (1 mA) If that doesn’t work, try 6k ohm. (2 mA) You can keep going until you find when the vehicle reliably detects trailer presence. Typical small resistors are 1/8 watt or 1/4 watt rating. 1/4 watt @ 12v is 20 mA. (600 ohm) 1/8 watt @ 12v is 10 mA. (1.2k ohm)
If none of those work, perhaps Toyota is checking each of the individual lighting circuits. If it was me building this fake trailer thingy, I would use a 2k ohm resistor for each of the lighting circuits (to the ground pin) and see if it works. Also put a 2k ohm resistor between the 12v and ground too.
Maybe some trailer wizard will chime in with some street knowledge.
- Moderator
- #28
Having just completed fabrication of my power lift bike rack and trying it out for the first time yesterday, I have come to the conclusion, the 7 pin power and ground wires do not "auto-disable" the anti-back up/brake feature. I am going to try and attach a normal 1157 bulb to the running light wire and see if that turns the feature off. If it works, I'll just put the bulb in a weatherproof alum box and let it shine in the box......LOL.
- Thread starter
- #29
I actually started with this approach. Ask a hundred people and you’ll get a hundred different answers on what type of resistors to use; I used 47ohm 5W but it did literally nothing. I was on all the lights and 12v wires dumping to ground.
I had the option of buying a zillion different resistors and trying via trial and error and endless soldering, but the price could very well have exceeded the cost of just spending $40 (I live in the sticks so either Amazon or snail mail delivery for resistors, =not cheap).
I also tried a set of trailer lights plugged into the 4-pin. That also did nothing.
I suspect the truck is looking for the brake controller, hence why only emulators seem to work vs simple testers.
Interesting. New trailers have LED lights, so the power is really low compared to filament type lamps. It's also interesting that from what you're saying the LC is looking for an electric trailer brake. That's just wrong. The system should detect any trailer hooked up, not just ones using the trailer brake controller.
I have a trailer light tester and a cargo trailer with trailer brakes. I'll do a few tests and report my findings.
Thank you for the link. I ordered the Tekonsha 6562 tester/emulator and gave it a try on my 2024 LC FE. Not working for me. I verified settings on the LC were set for electric breaks on trailer up to 4999 in the settings. It started working for me on engine restart and gave me message several things disabled and I was able to start backing up without all the waring alarms but after I reversed about 10 feet all of a sudden the breaks engaged. Currently I have not been able to get it to detect trailer is connected again. I reseated the emulator and verified all the emulator LED lights seem to be correct as far as 12V and blinkers etc. Any ideas? This would be a great solution if it worked for me. My guess is the emulator is just outside of the range for whatever the LC is looking for, hence why it detected once for me but then stoppped working mid use.
If anyone knows for sure how the trailer detect works I could fabricate a device.
-Tim
Seems like plugging something in would take just as long as getting into the menus to disable the second parking-related sensor. Between the button on the dash and the menu item, it takes about 30 seconds.
Welcome to the asylum @Tim Young.
I've never turned that menu item back on. In fact I don't remember what it does.
- Moderator
- #35
I haven't been able to test it yet due to the weather, but I'm working on a cheap emulator using the electro-magnet from trailer brakes. If it works, I'll do a thread on it and what was involved in the build.
I turned off the parking sensors and the prox sensors in the menu and haven't had any beeping or trouble with my bike rack since. I guess I don't really mind clearing a message when I start the car.
- Moderator
- #37
Happy to report my cheapo solution to the 7 Pin - auto disable backup issue.
I purchased a Electromagnet trailer brake magnet for a 7" hub
One wire to ground the other wire to pin 2 (Blue wire)
Works just like is should, plug in the 7 pin = no issues backing up with my rack installed.
I purchased a Electromagnet trailer brake magnet for a 7" hub
One wire to ground the other wire to pin 2 (Blue wire)
Works just like is should, plug in the 7 pin = no issues backing up with my rack installed.
Kuat doesn't sell a license plate holder with a light though
That seems like an inexpensive solution. Can you post a picture for us with low comprehension. Thanks!
- Moderator
- #40
DIY Bike rack
I purchased a e-bike and needed a bike rack etc.......... I chose the "Cravot" for aprox $260.00 it was decent for what I paid but there were several things I wanted to change. 1 - It stuck way out from the bumper. 2 - The receiver fit was sloppy, which most receiver mounts are. 3 - The...
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