Closing in..

[Mikie]

Not a big deal to install the switch, but not trivial either. There is a procedure on this site that takes you thru the process of removing the back liftgate interior panel. This wiring is fairly straight forward, so long as you don't try to install an "auto off" timer, like I did -- there were some interactions between the car's control unit and the timer, that led to voltage outputs that I did not understand -- so rather than fuss with it I just abandoned the timer and just installed a simple on/off switch.

And now for some bitching....... Not only is it totally absurd that Toyota installed the lights without a switch, AND they did it without setting them up to automatically turn off after 20 minutes like the other cargo lights, but they did this in conjunction with a tiny 12-volt battery (AND TOYOTA UNDERSTANDS THE SMALL 12V BATTERY PROBLEM in electrified cars, just as them about how the Yaris has been doing...)

This whole battery issue on this car is, in my opinion, a big deal. If I had known this ahead of time, I probably would have waited a year and bought a non-hybrid 4Runner instead... It's not out of the question that I may still do so, but there are a ton of things that I DO like about the LC, and I've already put a lot of time & money into the LC trying to bring it up to a "minimum competence level" (stuff like skid plates, BFG K03 tires, a new battery, a battery monitor, pig-tails for both a wall charger and a solar charger, cargo cover, etc.)

 

[Viktorv1961]

Not a big deal to install the switch, but not trivial either. There is a procedure on this site that takes you thru the process of removing the back liftgate interior panel. This wiring is fairly straight forward, so long as you don't try to install an "auto off" timer, like I did -- there were some interactions between the car's control unit and the timer, that led to voltage outputs that I did not understand -- so rather than fuss with it I just abandoned the timer and just installed a simple on/off switch.

And now for some bitching....... Not only is it totally absurd that Toyota installed the lights without a switch, AND they did it without setting them up to automatically turn off after 20 minutes like the other cargo lights, but they did this in conjunction with a tiny 12-volt battery (AND TOYOTA UNDERSTANDS THE SMALL 12V BATTERY PROBLEM in electrified cars, just as them about how the Yaris has been doing...)

This whole battery issue on this car is, in my opinion, a big deal. If I had known this ahead of time, I probably would have waited a year and bought a non-hybrid 4Runner instead... It's not out of the question that I may still do so, but there are a ton of things that I DO like about the LC, and I've already put a lot of time & money into the LC trying to bring it up to a "minimum competence level" (stuff like skid plates, BFG K03 tires, a new battery, a battery monitor, pig-tails for both a wall charger and a solar charger, cargo cover, etc.)

Peculiar thing is that the light switch in overhead console controls cabins light, but cannot shut off liftgeate lights...I do not get it..

 

[Mikie]

...and to top everything off, Toyota elected to install a basic flooded lead-acid battery in the vehicle...

My '19 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk (which I replaced with the LC) came with a nice, big AGM battery! An AGM is better in many regards than a regular flooded battery (in addition to the greater electrical capacity, the AGM has little or no venting, is much more resistant to shocks, is leak proof, offers better performance in extreme hot/cold conditions, lasts longer, etc.)

But Toyota went cheapo on the battery...

 

[Dark_Horse]

...and to top everything off, Toyota elected to install a basic flooded lead-acid battery in the vehicle...

My '19 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk (which I replaced with the LC) came with a nice, big AGM battery! An AGM is better in many regards than a regular flooded battery (in addition to the greater electrical capacity, the AGM has little or no venting, is much more resistant to shocks, is leak proof, offers better performance in extreme hot/cold conditions, lasts longer, etc.)

But Toyota went cheapo on the battery...

So, if I may ask, what battery did you replace the OEM battery with?

 

[Mikie]

I got an Optima Yellowtop model DH6. I didn't have any experience with Optima, and these are somewhat controversial at this point (some folks think they're great, others suggest that since production was moved to Mexico, the quality has decreased significantly...)

Interestingly, although I looked and looked, and couldn't find a single "battery finder" site that listed a replacement battery for the LC. I was surprised, since I searched for a 2024 (my LC is a 2025), and I'd of assumed that the replacement batteries would be fairly widely available for 2024's at this point. Anyway, since I knew that another member had successfully installed the Optima, I went with that.

 

[Dark_Horse]

Thank you, I will look into that battery.

 

[Mikie]

Note that the Optima is pricey, I spent ~$350 (after the old core return) at Auto Zone. Also note that things may have changed in the past few months since i searched for a replacement -- I have to believe that the "battery finders" will start listing replacement batteries for the LC fairly soon.

One more bitch re the battery issue with the LC -- I sure wish Toyota had given us a meaningful indicator of the 12 Volt battery charge level. The indicator that is part of the Max Boost view in the driver's info display is mis-identified in the owner's manual, where it says that it's the 12 Volt battery charge level, but it is in fact the charge level for the large traction battery, not the 12 volt.

I don't know of another electrified vehicle at this point that does not provide a simple charge level indicator for the 12 volt battery... The provided old-school indicator in the LC is almost useless -- there is no way to discern 12.4 volts from 12.8 volts, but in practical use, 12.8 volts is a totally charged battery, and (according to Optima) you should always keep your battery above 12.4 volts to avoid sulfation.....