Stupid question... any idea what size/thread pattern nut goes on the post with the yellow arrow, my LC has just a post there so I need to get a nut to hold down any connections I attach there...
🛠️ Member Build Anderson Connector setup for Off-road Compressor
- Thread starter PixelMagic
- Start date
Member Build
Thanks for the expertise in this post. Just did my own similar port with an outlet on the back deck.
Clean job!
Yep, nice install.
I’m still skittish about drilling holes and the like in my vehicle (but have been slowly warming to the practice!). I just copycatted PixelMagic after getting the sage help from the local forum wizards and did a concealed install behind the jack access door. I don’t use it much but it works great when I do.
Thanks again to PixelMagic for taking the time to make the original install post.
Another Forum winner.
I’m still skittish about drilling holes and the like in my vehicle (but have been slowly warming to the practice!). I just copycatted PixelMagic after getting the sage help from the local forum wizards and did a concealed install behind the jack access door. I don’t use it much but it works great when I do.
Thanks again to PixelMagic for taking the time to make the original install post.
Another Forum winner.
Attachments
This will work great too, and could be easily mounted later if you feel better about cutting/drilling. Nice work.
For those unfamiliar, buy one of these deburring tools to clean up edges for professional look - and primarily, to remove sharp edges.
I’ve never used one of these; thanks for sharing. Worth trying for ten bucks. Do they seem to work better than a piece of sand paper (that’s what I’ve been using)?
Yes, but they take a bit of practice to get best result. Use light pressure, let the tool do the work. They're also extremely good at deburring flesh, so be careful.
I use one weekly, but mostly on metal. Some advise.......... These are designed to deburr metal, but work on plastic really well, that being said they will completely cut through plastic edges, so be light on the pressure until you get the feel for it.
Thanks guys. $10 bucks seems like a great way to try out a new tool. I’ll take care to go slow so I don’t cut through plastic (or flesh)!
For my build, here are the parts I purchased:
-100A Circuit breaker (because my compressor can pull as high as 90Amps)
-4 AWG wires (used the positive wire to run from the battery to the circuit breaker)
-4 AWG wires with Anderson (positive from circuit breaker and negative direct to neg ground on battery)
-Extra Aderson plugs to install on compressor power cord and outlet mount with cover
-M6 1.0 flange nut for battery terminal (mine did not have a nut on it) posted above
Tip: Before disconnecting battery, make sure you either turn off the "security PIN code" in the head unit or have it memorized, because you'll sometimes be locked out of your head unit after a battery d/c and reconnect (don't ask me how I found this out
Disconnect battery ground first, then positive. Plan your wiring runs, cut any holes and route wiring. It was handy to have the circuit breaker in the loop, so it could be left open during the remainder of the install without sparking from the wires on the downside of the circuit breaker. Then once everything was connected, just close the breaker and its active.
I still plan to always have the engine running when using this outlet, not wanting to take any chances flattening the starter battery.
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As an alt "POS" and "Neg" cable connection points, there is an unused stud under the Red plastic cover (near the pos battery post) that's protected by an OEM 200 amp fusible link, that appears to be intended for an OEM air compressor (but the LC doesn't have). The OEM Neg 12v battery cable connection to LC is located behind the "D" pillar trim panel.
You don't have to remove the trim panel, but it made it easy........
You don't have to remove the trim panel, but it made it easy........
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