Alignment Issues after 2" lift

[corywf]

@corywf I would do the Panhard, it's not off by much at ride height (less than 1/8") can't remember exactly what I measured when installing mine. When I went to install the adjustable panhard at stock length it was a little less than a half of the bolt hole off.

All that said, the small difference at ride height is amplified through the travel arc of the axle (think stuffed tire on frame side and full droop on the axle side) that difference will be much more significant placing a lot more stress on the rear u-joints when they are most susceptible to breaking at max articulation and when your likely to load them up with torque during wheel slip and sudden traction events. Cheap insurance to add trail reliability and prevent drive shaft and or u-joint destruction.

If your lift is more for looks and less for offroad I wouldn't worry about it.

Thanks for that insight. Now I'm back to thinking I should just get both while they're on sale

 

[Mtn40]

A longer panhard rod doesn't correct for the side-to-side motion of the rear axle as the axle moves up and down parallel to the truck like when you go over a bump.

The track bar correction bracket brings the bar back closer to horizontal and minimizes that side to side motion.

When cross-flexing the suspension, either solution would help take care of the issues @Bad1975 mentioned.

 

[Calokie]

Thanks for that insight. Now I'm back to thinking I should just get both while they're on sale

I’d go with the bracket

 

[Matthew@LC250Mods]

Stock caster spec is like 3.6 to 5.1 so while that likely is the reason for the reduced steering feel/centering, that's probably the best you can get with 2" of lift. I would recommend upgrading your UCAs if you want to be back in the center of the range or want to shoot for a specific caster target. You won't wear out tires with those specs but it makes perfect sense why the steering doesn't feel the same.

 

[corywf]

Stock caster spec is like 3.6 to 5.1 so while that likely is the reason for the reduced steering feel/centering, that's probably the best you can get with 2" of lift. I would recommend upgrading your UCAs if you want to be back in the center of the range or want to shoot for a specific caster target. You won't wear out tires with those specs but it makes perfect sense why the steering doesn't feel the same.

Makes sense! I have some UCAs on order.

 

[back2lumby]

I just had the wescott 2.5" kit installed along with Camburg UCAs and 35x12.5" tires on +35 wheels. The shop set my caster at 5.5 which seems high. Wescott does not specify a caster spec, only camber and toe which are spot on. They also say there should be no rubbing with this set up (after crash bracket removal) but the tires are making contact with front fenders at full lock. Do we think 5.5 caster is way too high and is that possibly causing the rub up front?

 

[jonnys_honda]

I just had the wescott 2.5" kit installed along with Camburg UCAs and 35x12.5" tires on +35 wheels. The shop set my caster at 5.5 which seems high. Wescott does not specify a caster spec, only camber and toe which are spot on. They also say there should be no rubbing with this set up (after crash bracket removal) but the tires are making contact with front fenders at full lock. Do we think 5.5 caster is way too high and is that possibly causing the rub up front?

Any chance you resolved your rubbing issues?

 

[back2lumby]

Any chance you resolved your rubbing issues?

I removed the outermost bolt underneath the front fender liner, pushed the fender liner in a bit, then relocated the bolt to that square hole in front of it to hold the liner in it's new position. That resolved 90% but still hits occasionally when flexed out.