CV axle explosions similar to "Solid AXLE" Birfield issues on the 80 Series when going to 35" and larger.
Rotational mass Vr design limitations. Could however be mitigated by upgrade to GX550 CV Axles
Your LC250 can climb Hells Gate UT
- Thread starter t3lcfe
- Start date
Rotational mass Vr design limitations. Could however be mitigated by upgrade to GX550 CV Axles
Yes, go take a look at the size of CV axles on your LC 250 and all of your front end components, compare them to a Jeep Rubicon with a D44 which will reliably handle a 35" tire from the factory. This is a very, very common issue on ALL models of Land Cruisers with IFS. Almost every episode of 4WD 24-7 in Australia, you'll see these guys breaking CV's with 35's. It's more common than replacing a flat on the trail. All these 250-series cruisers for IG builds snapped driveline components the first time out on the trail back when they were released in 2024, trying to run 35-37" tires.
You rarely see a 33" and below cause these driveline issues. Globally, this is what most are running.
Stock OEM 18" wheel is 27-lbs. Add in 40-lbs for the OEM tire. You're around 65-lbs. My Yokohama Geolander AT XD E-load 265/70R18 (OEM size) weigh in at 56-lbs each. To step up to the same tire for a 35, that weight goes to around 72-lbs. It's very easy to get up to and over 100-lbs per corner with a 35" tire. While this may not sound significant, it's over a 50% increase in unsprung weight and rotational mass (over stock) on every corner of the vehicle.
Now add mud or clay to the mix. Not a fun day.
So those are some of the reasons why they are, or can be less reliable.
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OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #23
35” is sweet spot without re-gearing
37” is hard push…ideally to have portal if above 37”
Mine with 35”….runs smooth like stream hehe. Everyone can say whatever…I just share my hand-on experience
Happy LC to all gang here
You convinced me35” is sweet spot without re-gearing
37” is hard push…ideally to have portal if above 37”
Mine with 35”….runs smooth like stream hehe. Everyone can say whatever…I just share my hand-on experience
Happy LC to all gang here
34s it is!!!
35” is sweet spot without re-gearing
37” is hard push…ideally to have portal if above 37”
Mine with 35”….runs smooth like stream hehe. Everyone can say whatever…I just share my hand-on experience
Happy LC to all gang here
Brad from Trail Recon had a very interesting take when he first went to 35's on his cruiser (like he would a Jeep). Was the opposite of the above
So I think everyone has an opinion on this subject. For how remote I drive and where we wheel, definitely not in the cards for me. I think a lightweight 34" is probably the best compromise overall between clearances and parts longevity. Here are some of the options, I would certainly keep this all in mind if going any larger than a 33" tire.
Posted from a Jeep site:
MUD-TERRAINS
33's
33x12.50R17 Cooper STT - 63lbs
285/70R17 - BFG KM2's - 60lbs
295/70x17 - Nitto Trail Grappler - 71lbs
295/70x17 - Toyo M/T - 73lbs
33x12.50R17 - Hecules Trail Digger M/T- 56lbs
LT285/70R17 - Firestone M/T 61 lbs.
33x12.50R17 - Mickey T's MTZ's - 63lbs
285/70R17 - GY Duratrac - 53lbs
33x12.50R17 - Dick Cepek Mud Country - 63lbs
35's
35x12.50R17 unless noted
Cooper STT's - 68lbs
Hercules Trail Digger M/T - 62lbs
Toyo M/T - 79lbs
BFG KM2's- 67lbs
Goodyear Duratrac-(315/70R17) - 60lbs
Goodyear MTR- 64lbs
Dunlop Mud Rover - 56lbs
Nitto Trail Grappler- 79lbs
Nitto Mud Grappler - 81lbs
Mickey T MTZ's - 68lbs
Pitbull Rockers - 85lbs
Deck Cepek Mud Country - 78lbs
Pro Comp Xtreme Mud Terrain 315/70R17 68lbs
All Terrains and Hybrid All Terrain / Mud Terrain
33's
Cooper ST MAXX - 295/70r17 - 65lbs
33x12.50R17 Dick Cepeks FCII's - 58lbs
285/70R17 - BFG A/T KO's - 59lbs
285/70R17 - Mickey T BAJA ATZ's - 55lbs
305/65R17 - Mickey T BAJA ATZ - 59lbs
Nitto Terra Grappler 285/70R17 54lbs
Toyo Open Country A/T LT285/70R17 53 lbs
Yokohama Geolander A/T S LT285/70R17 56 lbs
Falken Wildpeak A/T 33x12.50R17 63 lbs
35's
Cooper ST MAXX - 315/70R17 - 66lbs
Dick Cepek FCII's - 66lbs
BFG A/T KO's (315/70R17) - 64lbs
Mickey T Baja ATZ - 67lbs
Nitto Terra Grappler 325/70R17 68lbs
Toyo Open Country AT 325/70R17 77lbs
General Grabber AT2 35X12.50R17LT 74lbs
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OP
OP
- Thread starter
- #26
Then Brad went back to 35” with 2” lifted Kings shocksBrad from Trail Recon had a very interesting take when he first went to 35's on his cruiser (like he would a Jeep). Was the opposite of the above
1” clearance different is big deal in off-road.
30-33” tires are fine, but 35” is best if go with 2” “real” lifted
. 37” or above are superior, but $$$ to spend for it also “superior” 
Just do your homework and go with whatever you think it best suited your use. Don’t let others influenced you…Nothing is absolutely Right for All, and Nothing is absolutely Wrong for All
Happy LC is most important
Then Brad went back to 35” with 2” lifted Kings shocks
1” clearance different is big deal in off-road.
30-33” tires are fine, but 35” is best if go with 2” “real” lifted
Just do your homework and go with whatever you think it best suited your use. Don’t let others influenced you…Nothing is absolutely Right for All, and Nothing is absolutely Wrong for All
Happy LC is most important
Yes he did, now he plans on selling it
like many of us, can't make up his mind.Tried to turn the cruiser into a Jeep Rubicon, which it'll never be. Then said it'll be his tow-rig, after he just sold his RAM Power Wagon which was already the perfect rig for what he's doing now (can fit 37's reliably bone stock with AEV offset wheels).
I enjoy the Aussie content as the sales pitches aren't so obvious for certain manufacturers. Brad put a lot of garbage on his cruiser that he likely wouldn't have otherwise, which he removed them all (Goose Gear, KC lights, etc.) during his last episode with it, and is now hauling around a six-figure Patriot camper.
Maybe I'm not the typical cruiser owner, I also have a RAM Power Wagon that I will gladly throw 40's on and take it out to Moab. The drivetrain is fairly bulletproof. I plan on building it out next year as it's no longer our primary vehicle.
If I wanted a dedicated short wheel base to go rock crawling I'd buy a used Jeep Wrangler Rubicon and go 5.13's with 37's. Cruiser is designed to cross continents, I'm concerned about reliability in very remote areas off grid, as we travel alone to get away from everyone else. We carry two forms of land anchors (not many trees around this part of America), MaxTrax, winch extension lines, and every form of self recovery tool, I don't go in areas where it looks like I -need- 35's, because that means I likely -need- 37's to not have my anxiety through the roof with how remote these areas are
all the power to people who do.
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I love Brad but that dude cracks me up. Like you said… bro can’t make up his mind. But I like his vibe and his attitude.Yes he did, now he plans on selling it
Tried to turn the cruiser into a Jeep Rubicon, which it'll never be. Then said it'll be his tow-rig, after he just sold his RAM Power Wagon which was already the perfect rig for what he's doing now (can fit 37's reliably bone stock with AEV offset wheels).
I enjoy the Aussie content as the sales pitches aren't so obvious for certain manufacturers. Brad put a lot of garbage on his cruiser that he likely wouldn't have otherwise, which he removed them all (Goose Gear, KC lights, etc.) during his last episode with it, and is now hauling around a six-figure Patriot camper.
Maybe I'm not the typical cruiser owner, I also have a RAM Power Wagon that I will gladly throw 40's on and take it out to Moab. The drivetrain is fairly bulletproof. I plan on building it out next year as it's no longer our primary vehicle.
If I wanted a dedicated short wheel base to go rock crawling I'd buy a used Jeep Wrangler Rubicon and go 5.13's with 37's. Cruiser is designed to cross continents, I'm concerned about reliability in very remote areas off grid, as we travel alone to get away from everyone else. We carry two forms of land anchors (not many trees around this part of America), MaxTrax, winch extension lines, and every form of self recovery tool, I don't go in areas where it looks like I -need- 35's, because that means I likely -need- 37's to not have my anxiety through the roof with how remote these areas are
The size of the tire has little to do with killing a CV axle, wheel slip followed by instant traction and improper angles due to poor lift choices and slip followed by traction kill cv’s.
Solid axle 80s don’t break burfields with 35s either unless the same same slip and sudden traction occurs and that’s not a result of the tire size either.
It will put more stress on them over time for sure.
Part time conversion on an 80 moves the failure point to a locking hub swap. Much easier trail repair and more wallet friendly as well.
There are chromoly axles available for the 250 if you choose to drive off-road in the types of terrain and can’t control your wheel slip or are just worried you’ll break them.
Just keep in mind your moving failure point to the front diff (expensive) or hopefully drive shaft u-joints. A regear at the diff compounds axle failure rate due to more torque able to be applied, only way around that is portals (money and a maintenance nightmare).
Solid axle 80s don’t break burfields with 35s either unless the same same slip and sudden traction occurs and that’s not a result of the tire size either.
It will put more stress on them over time for sure.
Part time conversion on an 80 moves the failure point to a locking hub swap. Much easier trail repair and more wallet friendly as well.
There are chromoly axles available for the 250 if you choose to drive off-road in the types of terrain and can’t control your wheel slip or are just worried you’ll break them.
Just keep in mind your moving failure point to the front diff (expensive) or hopefully drive shaft u-joints. A regear at the diff compounds axle failure rate due to more torque able to be applied, only way around that is portals (money and a maintenance nightmare).
