Will a decent suspension give me back the OEM ride feel, after a bumpier ride from LT tires?

[GR8Santini]

Your description in my mind really points to a Westcott or Peak F/R lift. I
’m a Westcott believer & it works well for our use.

What they’re not - It’s not for serious off road, or desert running, or dealing with/ hard high speed deadpan roads.
What they are - Great looking. I can vouch for a superior road ride on ‘26 LC Premium. Handling is improved, less sway, less brake dive.

Either sounds like they would work well for you.

Might recommend you PM Matthew@LC250Mods & get his opinion as a retailer who deals with/ your situation everyday.

 

[Matthew@LC250Mods]

I saw this and it originally got me on the bilstein train… then ai feedback has led me to Eibach and Fox. Probably best to let some time elapse and see real world feedback.

I want slight from lift for a more level aesthetic and slight gains in off road performance (from better suspension), but would also love to increase on road ride quality. I’m a newb and maybe this list of wants is not achievable…. I know the typical view point is that you trade on road comfort for off road performance, so maybe that in itself negates my wish list of items

Shoot us a PM if we can help in any way with your decision or sourcing your next setup!

Based on my experience, I would take Eibach off the list if ride comfort is your main priority. They are a good setup but definitely have more of a 'lifted body on frame truck' ride quality to them.

 

[Matthew@LC250Mods]

Your description in my mind really points to a Westcott or Peak F/R lift. I
’m a Westcott believer & it works well for our use.

What they’re not - It’s not for serious off road, or desert running, or dealing with/ hard high speed deadpan roads.
What they are - Great looking. I can vouch for a superior road ride on ‘26 LC Premium. Handling is improved, less sway, less brake dive.

Either sounds like they would work well for you.

Might recommend you PM Matthew@LC250Mods & get his opinion as a retailer who deals with/ your situation everyday.

Appreciate the recommendation! We can get him dialed

 

[SJR]

I’ll admit it, I have some C load tires 35x11.5 Toyo ATIII and while the ride isn’t bad, there are some badly cracked roads near me where it’s still not that comfy compared to my SL tires on my other car.

Instead of switching to SL tires, would upgrading to a decent suspension mitigate the harshness of the little bumps? Or is it still not going to give me the plush ride I’m seeking.

My 2 options I’m debating:

1) upgrading suspension and keeping my current tires, add 1.5-2” lift.

2)changing tires to a 285/70/17 SL tire, no lift

No suspension will compensate for the ride difference in load range C and E tires. E tires will also be ten to 20 lbs heavier

 

[RideWithYanu]

I’ll admit it, I have some C load tires 35x11.5 Toyo ATIII and while the ride isn’t bad, there are some badly cracked roads near me where it’s still not that comfy compared to my SL tires on my other car.

Instead of switching to SL tires, would upgrading to a decent suspension mitigate the harshness of the little bumps? Or is it still not going to give me the plush ride I’m seeking.

My 2 options I’m debating:

1) upgrading suspension and keeping my current tires, add 1.5-2” lift.

2)changing tires to a 285/70/17 SL tire, no lift

Lots of great advice in this thread. Things like tire pressure definitely should be your first route to adjust the ride feel (though you might find you’re hurting your fuel efficiency to gain ride comfort, if that’s something you care much about). Better suspension might smooth out the ride, but that’s a lot to do to mitigate tire rigidity. If you’re just looking for an excuse for upgraded suspension then by all means let this be it! For road comfort you’re not going to beat the Bilsteins.

Edit to add: I would encourage you to reevaluate if you need c-load tires. I’m on e-load, and while I do make use of the extra durability of sidewall, the ride rigidity sucks big time.

I love this series. No surprise where the manufacturers ranked either, especially since this test was focused on speed applications (versus crawling capability). Bilsteins at the top is expected, as they’re pioneers in the offroad racing scene. Also would expect Westcott to be at the bottom, as any spacer/puck lift belongs in the bin for any purpose other than instagram shots.

I just ordered an IMS kit with Icon control arms, and am already wondering if I should have just sprung for MRRs, but maybe I’ll leave those for the inevitable 80-series build.

 

[Bad1975]

I just ordered an IMS kit with Icon control arms, and am already wondering if I should have just sprung for MRRs, but maybe I’ll leave those for the inevitable 80-series build.

I think you made the right choice on the IMS, I have them on my 40 series and they are great. The MRRs are overkill unless your high speed desert running IMO. You may regret the Icon control arms in a year or two if they have poly bushings? I won't buy another Icon product ever, they don't last and their after sale support and customer is horrible.

 

[RideWithYanu]

I think you made the right choice on the IMS, I have them on my 40 series and they are great. The MRRs are overkill unless your high speed desert running IMO. You may regret the Icon control arms in a year or two if they have poly bushings? I won't buy another Icon product ever, they don't last and their after sale support and customer is horrible.

Ruh roh on the Icon point. I bought the tubular arms with delta joints, which have poly bushings. What issue did they give you? I do have a 3-year warranty on them at least, though bushings may not be covered.

Thanks for validating my IMS vs MRR decision. I’m a sucker for always “upgrading” when there’s a higher option, but I’m not doing anything close to desert running, unfortunately.

 

[Bad1975]

Poly bushings typically begin making noise after 5k miles or so. You can grease them to remedy but then that attracts dirt and slowly kills the bushings. Poly also is much stiffer and adds harness to the ride and transfers those loads onto other components.

Poly also doesn't play well with most petroleum based greases and oil, you have to use specific silicone grease. Really good aftermarket components will have greasable (zerks) bushings so you can perform the greasing as a maintenance item and flush debris out when greasing as well to extend their life and keep them quiet. For example the Dobinsons leafs on my 40 use Poly bushings and have grease zerks on the shackles and pivot pins for this reason. I didn't initially apply an additional grease and in less than 500 miles the squeeks began. They now get greased at each oil change and have been quiet since.

 

[RideWithYanu]

Poly bushings typically begin making noise after 5k miles or so. You can grease them to remedy but then that attracts dirt and slowly kills the bushings. Poly also is much stiffer and adds harness to the ride and transfers those loads onto other components.

Poly also doesn't play well with most petroleum based greases and oil, you have to use specific silicone grease. Really good aftermarket components will have greasable (zerks) bushings so you can perform the greasing as a maintenance item and flush debris out when greasing as well to extend their life and keep them quiet. For example the Dobinsons leafs on my 40 use Poly bushings and have grease zerks on the shackles and pivot pins for this reason. I didn't initially apply an additional grease and in less than 500 miles the squeeks began. They now get greased at each oil change and have been quiet since.

Thankfully these UCAs seem to have greasable zerks so I can build that into my routine.

 

[overtrail887]

So, hopefully this post doesn’t get the knives out. I also want better suspension but it comes with compromises somewhere.

Making suspension handle on road, absorb bumps, and control the body are three different goals and doing one well effects the others. It’s always a compromise. Toyota will need to make it good enough for most users and make it fit some bean counters budget.

One persons on road comfort is another persons too much body roll and poor stopping. One persons off road prowess is another person blinding headlights while they tow 5,000lbs up vail pass.

Then there is the maintenance. More advanced shocks need more frequent rebuilding. Want cool trick adjustable shocks that can do a wider range of body control and off road comfort, then they will need to be rebuilt on a regular schedule.

Now if we could get some zone control Bilstiens, the issue becomes money

 

[RideWithYanu]

So, hopefully this post doesn’t get the knives out. I also want better suspension but it comes with compromises somewhere.

Making suspension handle on road, absorb bumps, and control the body are three different goals and doing one well effects the others. It’s always a compromise. Toyota will need to make it good enough for must users and make it fit some bean counters budget.

One persons on road comfort is another persons too much body roll and poor stopping. One persons off road prowess is another person blinding headlights while they tow 5,000lbs up vail pass.

Then there is the maintenance. More advanced shocks need more frequent rebuilding. Want cool trick adjustable shocks that can do a wider range of body control and off road comfort, then they will need to be rebuilt on a regular schedule.

Now if we could get some zone control Bilstiens, the issue becomes money

Smart take, I’ll put my knives away.

 

[D-mac]

Then there is the maintenance. More advanced shocks need more frequent rebuilding. Want cool trick adjustable shocks that can do a wider range of body control and off road comfort, then they will need to be rebuilt on a regular schedule.

The higher end monotube shocks from major brands that are OEM suppliers like Bilstein, KYB, or Fox do not require regular rebuilding outside of competition use in my experience. Some of the smaller off road oriented brands have that reputation for needing frequent rebuilding though.

 

[DubDub]

So, hopefully this post doesn’t get the knives out. I also want better suspension but it comes with compromises somewhere.

Making suspension handle on road, absorb bumps, and control the body are three different goals and doing one well effects the others. It’s always a compromise. Toyota will need to make it good enough for must users and make it fit some bean counters budget.

One persons on road comfort is another persons too much body roll and poor stopping. One persons off road prowess is another person blinding headlights while they tow 5,000lbs up vail pass.

Then there is the maintenance. More advanced shocks need more frequent rebuilding. Want cool trick adjustable shocks that can do a wider range of body control and off road comfort, then they will need to be rebuilt on a regular schedule.

Now if we could get some zone control Bilstiens, the issue becomes money

I agree with everything you stated, as you made a subtle pass at the single point one could make in favor of an aftermarket solution over the OEM provided equipment. That is cost.

There are some options (like Bilstein that you mentioned), particularly in the mid-tier, monotube coilover replacement sector, that are (for the most part) simply improvements on the material aspect of the suspension. Avoiding the heavy lift, geometry changing, pivot point replacing modifications and sticking with direct bolt-on applications do come at a cost (typically long-term reliability), but are mostly simple improvements to what the vehicle was sold with by way of improved (and therefore more expensive) materials.

I agree though that those improvements might be reviewed as negative to many unfamiliar with BOF configurations, particularly those who want a BOF for the looks and subjective reliability over the intended use-case applicability. I’d be hard pressed to believe that a TRD Fox swap, or Bilstein 5100s (or 6100s for that matter) would exacerbate any of those observations though.

No knives, just thoughts here.

 

[SPetrone]

I’ll admit it, I have some C load tires 35x11.5 Toyo ATIII and while the ride isn’t bad, there are some badly cracked roads near me where it’s still not that comfy compared to my SL tires on my other car.

Instead of switching to SL tires, would upgrading to a decent suspension mitigate the harshness of the little bumps? Or is it still not going to give me the plush ride I’m seeking.

My 2 options I’m debating:

1) upgrading suspension and keeping my current tires, add 1.5-2” lift.

2)changing tires to a 285/70/17 SL tire, no lift

"Stay stock" Steve here. I'm not a heavy off-roader/rock crawler. I did make the change from 245/70R18s to 275/70R18. Gen Grabber SL rated. Total cost about 5lbs. for each tire. The extra weight and construction of heavier tires make a difference in almost every system on your LC.
So your new tires are not comfortable (and quite a bit heavier). You have options. My guess is an SL rated tire, sized appropriately, might be a cure. Cost $1500-2000. Now think through the other options and what you may or may not get. Now consider maintenance.
The reason I bought the 250 LC was I liked it. As is. So I added reasonable sized all terrain tires and RCI rock sliders. Bottom line, it still drives like a LC.
There are those in different boat with different needs. By all means do what you need or want.
What problem do you want to fix?

 

[RideWithYanu]

Thankfully these UCAs seem to have greasable zerks so I can build that into my routine.

@Bad1975 I researched further and actually don’t think these even have grease zerks. Called my supplier up and had him switch to the Dobinsons billet UCAs you recommended in the first place.