Redline Quicklift Plus Hood Struts - no more prop rod!

uraniumrich

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📛 Founding Member
Aug 12, 2024
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St. Louis, MO
Vehicles
LC250
Redline released their Quicklift Plus Hood Struts for the LC250 last Friday. Mine arrived today and install could not have been easier. The instructions are clear and easy to follow. I took my time doing the job, but you could easily do this in about two minutes flat if you are more the type to just get things done. The struts lift the hood almost immediately upon opening. If you're going to do struts, seems like these should be at the top of the list!

Install Steps -

1. Enlarge two holes in the bonnet with the step bit included in the kit. I'd recommend covering the engine bay with a tarp to keep the metal shavings out of the engine bay and off of the paint. Take your time drilling and apply just enough pressure to help keep the drill bit perpendicular to the hood. I would pulse the drill a little bit at a time to make sure that the step bit didn't grab and jump several steps.
IMG_6846_LC-Redline.jpg
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IMG_6847_LC-Redline.jpg


2. Redline suggests using some automotive touch up paint to coat the metal exposed by drilling. I had some clear coat spray, so I masked the area and sprayed the clear coat.
IMG_6849_LC-Redline.jpg


3. Install the blind nut assemblies in the freshly drilled holes.
IMG_6848_LC-Redline.jpg


4. Mount the left and right fender brackets as indicated in the directions (right side shown below).
IMG_6851_LC-Redline.jpg


5. Install struts. Enjoy never having to use the f*@&ing prop rod again. Thanks for nothing, Toyota!
IMG_6854_LC-Redline.jpg


Here's a movie that shows how the struts actually lift up the hood on their own once you get it started. Bonus points if you can name the song and artist playing in the background of the video.


 

Attachments

  • IMG_6851_LC-Redline.jpg
    IMG_6851_LC-Redline.jpg
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Receive mine yesterday and installed them this morning. Love them and thanks to others on the forum for the recommendation...worth the wait to get these. I gotta admit I was SUPER worried about drilling to enlarge the existing holes. Something about drilling into the body of my car just freaked me out. It was really easy...thanks to @uraniumrich for the info early as it helped illustrate and made me more confident. No fear now!

I attached a scan of the Install Instructions below. Not on their website yet and they are very thorough and detailed.

A couple recommendations...first, when it says in the instructions for Step 5 to use an open ended wrench, do what they say. I tried to use a 1/4" socket with a 12mm and thought the bolt would back out before the socket got wedged. Wrong! It was tough to screw the bolt back in so I would remove the socket and start over with the proper wrench.

Also, people seemed to think the struts might impede on the open space by the fuse boxes. I can't confirm, bit it seems totally clear for installs there to me. The mounting brackets elevate a bit above that area and it appears the struts tuck very nicely into the cavity in the hood without rubbing. Seems super well thought out.

See my pics...very pleased with the install!

Before drilling

IMG_3585.jpeg


After Drilling
IMG_3586.jpeg



After ball is screwed in
IMG_3589.jpeg


Final install
IMG_3591.jpeg


Clearance below strut
IMG_3593.jpeg

 

Attachments

  • Redline LC Instructions.pdf
    995.8 KB · Views: 20
Receive mine yesterday and installed them this morning. Love them and thanks to others on the forum for the recommendation...worth the wait to get these. I gotta admit I was SUPER worried about drilling to enlarge the existing holes. Something about drilling into the body of my car just freaked me out. It was really easy...thanks to @uraniumrich for the info early as it helped illustrate and made me more confident. No fear now!

I attached a scan of the Install Instructions below. Not on their website yet and they are very thorough and detailed.

A couple recommendations...first, when it says in the instructions for Step 5 to use an open ended wrench, do what they say. I tried to use a 1/4" socket with a 12mm and thought the bolt would back out before the socket got wedged. Wrong! It was tough to screw the bolt back in so I would remove the socket and start over with the proper wrench.

Also, people seemed to think the struts might impede on the open space by the fuse boxes. I can't confirm, bit it seems totally clear for installs there to me. The mounting brackets elevate a bit above that area and it appears the struts tuck very nicely into the cavity in the hood without rubbing. Seems super well thought out.

See my pics...very pleased with the install!

Before drilling

View attachment 37721

After Drilling
View attachment 37722


After ball is screwed in
View attachment 37723

Final install
View attachment 37724

Clearance below strut
View attachment 37725
View attachment 37726
Great job! I wish all hoods opened like this!
 
Installed mine yesterday. Super easy. Drilling the holes are a bit nerve wracking. Please cover the engine bay with a tarp. I did not and had aluminum shavings everywhere. I did not repaint the holes. It's aluminum so I didn't worry a whole lot. The struts work well.
 
Imagine Dragons - Believer (Live in Vegas)
You win the respect and admiration of everyone on the forum. Well done. I actually had posted a different video originally. The other video had a Simple Minds song in it...much tougher to get, I think. Want to try?
 
Installed mine yesterday. Super easy. Drilling the holes are a bit nerve wracking. Please cover the engine bay with a tarp. I did not and had aluminum shavings everywhere. I did not repaint the holes. It's aluminum so I didn't worry a whole lot. The struts work well.
Covering the engine bay with a tarp is my best advice!
 
I installed my Redlines two days ago. Super easy but two minutes is not realistic for anyone who hasn’t done it before. Try 10-15. I used an old blanket to cover the engine bay during drilling and used a blower after to ensure the metal shards are gone. This is a great, well designed product and does exactly what you’d expect. The hood opens on it own once the hood latch is released and you put the slightest upward pressure on the hood. Glad I waited for Redline. Excellent mod and strongly recommend.
 
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Installed mine yesterday. Super easy. Drilling the holes are a bit nerve wracking. Please cover the engine bay with a tarp. I did not and had aluminum shavings everywhere. I did not repaint the holes. It's aluminum so I didn't worry a whole lot. The struts work well.
I was going to ask — if the metal there is aluminum, paint isn’t really needed. Thanks for confirming.
 
Long post but please paint the aluminum!

Uncoated aluminum corrodes, much slower than a rust rate but it develops a white oxide powder that pits the aluminum and once it gets started it’s impossible to stop by anything other than cutting/grinding out the affected area or chemical processes and that powder is cancerous by contact and inhalation.

Aluminum around a coastal environment is comparable to rust and in many cases worse.

Also due to being in a vehicle it will corrode slowly due to Galvonic corrosion and moisture in the air and get worse over time as the electrical system degrades.

Bi-metallic corrosion will also be an issue if the bracket and hardware aren’t aluminum and the aluminum will act as a sacrificial anode and take the worst of the corrosion.

The lower the hardness of a metal the faster it corrodes that is why all sacrificial anodes are of soft metals and they attract corrosion when used along side harder metals to protect and limit the corrosion to them.

My advice get some aluminum primer and your choice of topcoat paint. Normal paint will not adhere to aluminum it needs an acid to etch the surface during the painting process otherwise it’s just laying over the surface vice adhered to it.
 
Long post but please paint the aluminum!

Uncoated aluminum corrodes, much slower than a rust rate but it develops a white oxide powder that pits the aluminum and once it gets started it’s impossible to stop by anything other than cutting/grinding out the affected area or chemical processes and that powder is cancerous by contact and inhalation.

Aluminum around a coastal environment is comparable to rust and in many cases worse.

Also due to being in a vehicle it will corrode slowly due to Galvonic corrosion and moisture in the air and get worse over time as the electrical system degrades.

Bi-metallic corrosion will also be an issue if the bracket and hardware aren’t aluminum and the aluminum will act as a sacrificial anode and take the worst of the corrosion.

The lower the hardness of a metal the faster it corrodes that is why all sacrificial anodes are of soft metals and they attract corrosion when used along side harder metals to protect and limit the corrosion to them.

My advice get some aluminum primer and your choice of topcoat paint. Normal paint will not adhere to aluminum it needs an acid to etch the surface during the painting process otherwise it’s just laying over the surface vice adhered to it.
Will a boat building epoxy work okay to seal the aluminum up from the environment?
 
As long as is adheres to the aluminum and seals it from air and moisture as well as prevents the direct bi-metal contact.
 
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