Purchasing Process + Purchasing Advice

BKLC

Member
📛 Founding Member
Aug 20, 2024
32
Media
1
20
Los Angeles
Vehicles
2024 Land Cruiser - Land Cruiser w/Premium Package
Just purchased a 2024 Land Cruiser, LC Trim - Black exterior w/Java interior, equipped w/Premium Package and Illuminated door sills. I've scanned this forum regularly and have picked up a few pieces of great advice, figured I'd return the favor. Happy to walk through:
  • Background/What I intend to use the vehicle for
  • My purchasing process
  • Purchasing advice, negotiation tactics
(feel free to skip to the bottom!)

1. Background/What I intend to use the vehicle for
  • I'm new to the Los Angeles area, am 6' tall, mid-thirties, no kids, but have a huge dog. I'm frequently in Mammoth snowboarding during the winter, road-tripping across the country (work remote, in tech so I don't commute), and fish/hike a bunch all over Socal
  • FWIW - I've worked in Enterprise Software for 10+ years, in sales
  • Just got the windows tinted and plan on throwing some 80/90% on-road All-Terrain tires (don't want to lose MPG, nor create unnecessary wind-noise, but will hit the dirt a few times a year - if you have suggestions on what tires to grab/where do I even start? please share!)
2. My purchasing process
  • Originally interested in the 2025 4Runner for the rear rolldown window and overall more cargo space than my previous car (both of which my dog would've loved) but after sitting in the 4th gen Tacoma - the space/headroom feels super cramped, windshield seems to have very limited visibility, and the materials don't seem premium at all
  • Went to check out a 2024 Tacoma to compare drive/feel to 6th gen/2024 4runner and it had a clearly misaligned rear gate, the panels don't seem to fit well, and is clearly lacking in build quality compared to the LC. Lots of hard plastics, just seemed very rushed (think 2015 Tesla quality)
  • Were grabbing sandwiches in the area and happened to visit Toyota Santa Monica to kill time, test drove a Blk/Blk LC w/Premium and loved it, told them I won't support mark-ups and offered to pay cash for MSRP if they could give me +$1k above KBB value for my trade in - suggested we made a deal that day. They tried to push an $8k mark-up, told them to kick rocks and reverted back to my MSRP deal. They declined, then called back an hour after I had left and offered the deal I proposed - though by then I had seen the Java interior wanted to check it out
  • From here, I started to check inventory dates on the Toyota website - scanning it for LC's with the specific options I was interested in
  • Visited Toyota Westminster the following weekend to peep a Blk/Brwn LC w/Premium - they wanted a ridiculous mark-up $5-8k?, also were extremely rude. Made up my find it was going to be MSRP-ONLY and my specific add-ons only, ie: no crossbars, no dashcam, no theft deterrent alarm BS and +$1k above KBB for my trade in. They were extremely rude, the finance manager tries to pull that four-square napkin BS, and told me "next time, bring your tools before you go to war bro" complete waste of time, dudes a loser - avoid at all costs
  • Saw Northridge had one incoming, exactly how I wanted it spec'd (Blk/Brwn, Premium, All Weather Cargo Mats, illuminated Door Sills) - told them to call me as soon as it touched the lot, I'd pay cash and be in that day and asked that they don't add dealer add-on BS! (they said it would be added regardless and that there's a mark-up, I was confident in my negotiation skills, then deflected and asked for them to just to call me when it hit the lot)
  • Visited Toyota Hollywood, same deal - offered CASH for MSRP today if they removed $2k from sticker (because it had a bunch of add-ons I didn't want - tried to spec it to Northridge's one, showed Window Sticker), +$1k trade in - communicated that I didn't support paying dealer add-on BS. Told them I was first on the list at Northridge but I'd take theirs if they matched the price - because I didn't need the add-ons. They declined, couldn't go under MSRP by $2k having only had it on the lot for a day
  • Remained in communication with Northridge, through the Hollywood visit - they called as soon as it arrived. I asked to be transferred to the finance manager and made my same offer - MSRP, cash, KBB for trade in - today... who said he needed GM approval to sell @ MSRP, called me back in 5 minutes and said we had a deal
  • To my surprise, when I arrived some other sales rep was showing the car to another gentleman. We grabbed the keys and that guy hopped in and test drove it. I was lowkey pretty pissed, fully realizing that most of these sales guys have zero shame, and there's no such thing as loyalty or dignity. To be fair, I had a great experience with AJ from Northridge Toyota, he's new. Their Finance manager David and Walid kept it real - though wish they had considered my verbal commitment OTP as locked-in as I did. I had told them MSRP, cash-in hand, I'll be there in 30 mins, we have a deal - I'll buy it
  • Arrived around 6ish, paperwork took a few hours, they tried to pitch some warranties, I declined - left after closing ~9PM
3. Negotiation Tactics/Purchasing Advice
  • DON'T PAY DEALER MARK-UPS!
    • Tell them you'll only entertain MSRP only as you're next on the list @ an MSRP dealer but will purchase theirs if they match (google toyota MSRP only dealerships, there are a handful of Google.docs incredible people are put together) *you've gotta be willing to walk away!
    • Pit the dealerships against each other, visit one, test drive, make some competitive offers that day directly with the finance manager, then leave - but text them - securing an MSRP offer in writing. Walk into another dealership and leverage your MSRP offer to negate their mark-ups. Show them the texts.
    • Straight up refuse paying the dealer-add-on fee's, completely avoid it pretending it doesn't exist - they'll remove it, I promise ($400 for paint protection, $650 dash cam, $500 theft deterrent alarm? LOL... zero-in on MSRP. Pay ZERO attention to that other BS. I walked in and explained that I'm next on the list at multiple MSRP-only dealerships (Longo, Anaheim, etc)
      • They'll get salty that you're referring to much larger dealerships that are higher-volume and can afford to eat into margins by selling MSRP. Reply and ask them: if you're shopping for dish soap, are between two Target stores, and one is cheaper than the other - why would you go to the more expensive one? why is this any different?
  • Most MSRP-only dealers (ie: Longo) inventory won't show up on toyota.com's website - as their inventory is reserved and accounted for. Call and get on their waitlists because chances are no one ahead of you wants the same color/package combo you want (I called Longo yesterday, got on the list at roughly spot 45, not a single person wanted Blk/Brown LC lol)
  • Have crystal-clear examples on why you CAN'T have the add-ons:
    • Cross bars? Sorry, it won't fit in my garage with them - the extra few inches will hit my garage-top
    • Paint protection film? My cousin owns a shop and we're going to wrap it - so we'll need to remove it regardless
    • Theft deterrent alarm? I've already purchased an aftermarket one, don't need yours
    • Point being - if you clearly can't have these add-ons = end of negotiation. How can you argue for me to buy the crossbars if it takes away the ability for me to park it in my garage? (push for them to discount it, they can remove it after you buy)
  • They'll try to confuse you by grabbing paper and drawing those four quadrants/boxes during negotiations. Negotiate logically, first agreeing to the purchasing price, then how you pay for it ie: finance/lease terms/cash, then trade-in. Negotiate logically, 1 by 1. Be sure to lead them, don't let them lead you
  • If they can't go cheaper, get them to throw in additional incentives in order to make it worthwhile ie: maintenance costs, extended warranty, all-weather mats, keychains, etc. I'm surprised at how terrible most sales reps were at negotiating here... Rule #1 is never lower purchase price, instead sweeten the incentives...
  • Firmly propose the deal you want, and be willing to walk away. I cut to the chase, told them cash for MSRP, KBB for my trade in, and we have a deal... stuck my hand out for a handshake. That doesn't have to be your offer, ie: you can tell them $10k down, 5% rates pending +750 credit score, payments under $600/mo - I'll buy today. You'll see very quickly who's full of it and who's actually got the huevos to cut a deal
  • Lastly, it seems as if their ability to discount/sweeten the deal is highly dependent on where their quota-attainment is for the month. It sounds like there's both a # of vehicles sold component along with a separate quota-piece which they receive a kickback % based on sale price, which includes accelerators (ie: +150% of quota-retirement has a higher kickback % than +125%, which is higher than +100%, etc) which is why certain dealerships can hold out and won't entertain lower prices (their monthly attainment is likely higher or they might need a bigger sale to close the gap. vs. another dealership who might be in accelerators having over-achieved and might want to maximize his/her kickout quicker) hope that makes sense - in short, they'll be able to negotiate more if their monthly attainment is suffering

EDIT:
1. When dealerships promoted mark-ups, I politely told them that I'd be sharing my purchasing experience on the forums/online - a few seemed to pull back and be less aggressive. Would recommend you do the same
2. When test driving, I'd recommend peeping the video from the thread called 'the hybrid that can't' and revving the engine to make sure you don't hear knocking. I did, but while in park, not neutral

Hope this helps everyone. Good luck!
 
Last edited:
Thank you very much for sharing this info! I've been working for some time to buy a new LC around Atlanta. The dealership experience has been terrible. Thought I had one locked down yesterday. After we agreed on the price, they sent me an addendum, adding over $7k to the price!
 
Thank you very much for sharing this info! I've been working for some time to buy a new LC around Atlanta. The dealership experience has been terrible. Thought I had one locked down yesterday. After we agreed on the price, they sent me an addendum, adding over $7k to the price!
I understand your dilemma. I’m in the Atlanta area right across the street from a dealership that still has $9k markups plus a ton of add-ons. I had to go to Tennessee to get mines at MSRP.
 
I've bounced around two different dealerships as of today.

One, great sales guy, but they have nothing to sell to me (Yakima, WA). Said, I got you, but I see allocations 45 days out, with nothing coming.
I went to another dealer (Gresham, OR) that had a white LC on the ground, when I confirmed it. I was SHOCKED to discover the price went form 68k (on website) to 87k!!!
Why, because someone in their bright mind said, hey let's outfit this thing to include tires, rims, theft, coat, lift. Um, no thanks. Nice guy, but pass. He's motivated to work with me, but they are a 3 hour drive from me.

I'm heading to #3 (Tacoma, WA) soon. Just pondering colors. Do I want MS or White? I know I want LC Prem.
Update 1: #3 all three of their inbound are presold.
Update 2: Asked #1 about build timing, and pretty much was paraphrase "up to Toyota".

There's a lot of Sand, Blue, Black either in or coming in. Not colors I'm interested in.
 
Last edited:
I understand your dilemma. I’m in the Atlanta area right across the street from a dealership that still has $9k markups plus a ton of add-ons. I had to go to Tennessee to get mines at MSRP.
What dealer did you go with?
 
I tried finding a list of list of MSRP only dealers within a reasonable drive of Atlanta, but had no luck. So, I used google maps to locate all the dealers within about a 200mi radius and sent a pre-made message to each of their websites stating what I was looking for and that I wouldn't pay over MSRP or for add-ons. Toyota of Cleveland (TN), Toyota of Greenville (SC) and Heyward Allen Toyota (Athens, GA) are all MSRP only.
 
I joined the Facebook group, “No Mark Up Toyota”. I posted what I was looking for and got many hits from dealers with offers.

I ended up searching the Toyota inventory sight and found some at below MSRP. Called the first one and car had been sold the day before. Called the next one and made a deal.
 
Beware through the Owen’s Valley with tinted windows and speeding on your way to and from Mammoth. The CHP in that area love to write tickets. Speeding is defined as 1 MPH over the limit…
 
Just wanted to mention I purchased my new Land Cruiser 1958 in the greater LA area today using the advice from the OP and I think we did pretty well! Asked my wife, the master negotiator, to read it on our way to dealer, and had already secured a spot on the waitlist at Anaheim, as well as a SmartPath offer from Toyota of Clovis with a -$1500 dealership credit on a minimally accessorized 1958 (just floor/cargo mats and wheels locks) for an OTD price of $63,348.

The one in my sights had more accessories (Floor/cargo mats, rock rails, skid plate, door edge guards) and $3k of dealer shenanigans (XPEL paint protection film on hood, fender fronts, door cups, XPEL window tint, and some ceramic paint protection, PLUS a $1700 security system (?!?!!) and a host of fees) with a OTD of ~$71,850.

Long story short, basically saying no a lot, mentioning and showing them the SmartPath offer, and talking a lot about driving up to Clovis, we got them down to essentially the same price, $63,499, and the only thing they removed was their security system I didn’t want in the first place.

Anyway, by my math we got $3k under MSRP. The sales manager made a big show of “You have the first Land Cruiser under MSRP from this dealership, maybe anywhere” (🙄). I told him “It’s ok, you can hang my picture on the wall.”

My wife insists we coulda got more out them of them (“it shoulda been $15k under MSRP!”), but I’m happy. I like the mild tint, the XPEL paint protection is nice to have, and the rails and skid plate are welcome additions!
 
I understand your dilemma. I’m in the Atlanta area right across the street from a dealership that still has $9k markups plus a ton of add-ons. I had to go to Tennessee to get mines at MSRP.
How hard/complicated was the process of buying in TN and registering it in GA? Did the TN dealer give you grief about it?
 
I've bounced around two different dealerships as of today.
Try checking with Damian Lillard Toyota near Portland -- I bought my LCLC there for MSRP and they were an absolute class act, the best new-car-buying experience I've ever had (they didn't try to hard-sell anything and were more than willing to take no for an answer).
 
How hard/complicated was the process of buying in TN and registering it in GA? Did the TN dealer give you grief about it?
It’s been seamless so far. I had the LC just 3 weeks and still waiting on the tag and registration to come in the mail. They registered my LC with the GA DMV and the DMV and gave me a temp tag for 2 months because they said GA is notorious for being slow with delivering the tag.
 
Beware through the Owen’s Valley with tinted windows and speeding on your way to and from Mammoth. The CHP in that area love to write tickets. Speeding is defined as 1 MPH over the limit…

I'm always driving through here, usually very quickly... my new LC has tinted windows - hope they don't knab me!
 
Just purchased a 2024 Land Cruiser, LC Trim - Black exterior w/Java interior, equipped w/Premium Package and Illuminated door sills. I've scanned this forum regularly and have picked up a few pieces of great advice, figured I'd return the favor. Happy to walk through:
  • Background/What I intend to use the vehicle for
  • My purchasing process
  • Purchasing advice, negotiation tactics
(feel free to skip to the bottom!)

1. Background/What I intend to use the vehicle for
  • I'm new to the Los Angeles area, am 6' tall, mid-thirties, no kids, but have a huge dog. I'm frequently in Mammoth snowboarding during the winter, road-tripping across the country (work remote, in tech so I don't commute), and fish/hike a bunch all over Socal
  • FWIW - I've worked in Enterprise Software for 10+ years, in sales
  • Just got the windows tinted and plan on throwing some 80/90% on-road All-Terrain tires (don't want to lose MPG, nor create unnecessary wind-noise, but will hit the dirt a few times a year - if you have suggestions on what tires to grab/where do I even start? please share!)
2. My purchasing process
  • Originally interested in the 2025 4Runner for the rear rolldown window and overall more cargo space than my previous car (both of which my dog would've loved) but after sitting in the 4th gen Tacoma - the space/headroom feels super cramped, windshield seems to have very limited visibility, and the materials don't seem premium at all
  • Went to check out a 2024 Tacoma to compare drive/feel to 6th gen/2024 4runner and it had a clearly misaligned rear gate, the panels don't seem to fit well, and is clearly lacking in build quality compared to the LC. Lots of hard plastics, just seemed very rushed (think 2015 Tesla quality)
  • Were grabbing sandwiches in the area and happened to visit Toyota Santa Monica to kill time, test drove a Blk/Blk LC w/Premium and loved it, told them I won't support mark-ups and offered to pay cash for MSRP if they could give me +$1k above KBB value for my trade in - suggested we made a deal that day. They tried to push an $8k mark-up, told them to kick rocks and reverted back to my MSRP deal. They declined, then called back an hour after I had left and offered the deal I proposed - though by then I had seen the Java interior wanted to check it out
  • From here, I started to check inventory dates on the Toyota website - scanning it for LC's with the specific options I was interested in
  • Visited Toyota Westminster the following weekend to peep a Blk/Brwn LC w/Premium - they wanted a ridiculous mark-up $5-8k?, also were extremely rude. Made up my find it was going to be MSRP-ONLY and my specific add-ons only, ie: no crossbars, no dashcam, no theft deterrent alarm BS and +$1k above KBB for my trade in. They were extremely rude, the finance manager tries to pull that four-square napkin BS, and told me "next time, bring your tools before you go to war bro" complete waste of time, dudes a loser - avoid at all costs
  • Saw Northridge had one incoming, exactly how I wanted it spec'd (Blk/Brwn, Premium, All Weather Cargo Mats, illuminated Door Sills) - told them to call me as soon as it touched the lot, I'd pay cash and be in that day and asked that they don't add dealer add-on BS! (they said it would be added regardless and that there's a mark-up, I was confident in my negotiation skills, then deflected and asked for them to just to call me when it hit the lot)
  • Visited Toyota Hollywood, same deal - offered CASH for MSRP today if they removed $2k from sticker (because it had a bunch of add-ons I didn't want - tried to spec it to Northridge's one, showed Window Sticker), +$1k trade in - communicated that I didn't support paying dealer add-on BS. Told them I was first on the list at Northridge but I'd take theirs if they matched the price - because I didn't need the add-ons. They declined, couldn't go under MSRP by $2k having only had it on the lot for a day
  • Remained in communication with Northridge, through the Hollywood visit - they called as soon as it arrived. I asked to be transferred to the finance manager and made my same offer - MSRP, cash, KBB for trade in - today... who said he needed GM approval to sell @ MSRP, called me back in 5 minutes and said we had a deal
  • To my surprise, when I arrived some other sales rep was showing the car to another gentleman. We grabbed the keys and that guy hopped in and test drove it. I was lowkey pretty pissed, fully realizing that most of these sales guys have zero shame, and there's no such thing as loyalty or dignity. To be fair, I had a great experience with AJ from Northridge Toyota, he's new. Their Finance manager David and Walid kept it real - though wish they had considered my verbal commitment OTP as locked-in as I did. I had told them MSRP, cash-in hand, I'll be there in 30 mins, we have a deal - I'll buy it
  • Arrived around 6ish, paperwork took a few hours, they tried to pitch some warranties, I declined - left after closing ~9PM
3. Negotiation Tactics/Purchasing Advice
  • DON'T PAY DEALER MARK-UPS!
    • Tell them you'll only entertain MSRP only as you're next on the list @ an MSRP dealer but will purchase theirs if they match (google toyota MSRP only dealerships, there are a handful of Google.docs incredible people are put together) *you've gotta be willing to walk away!
    • Pit the dealerships against each other, visit one, test drive, make some competitive offers that day directly with the finance manager, then leave - but text them - securing an MSRP offer in writing. Walk into another dealership and leverage your MSRP offer to negate their mark-ups. Show them the texts.
    • Straight up refuse paying the dealer-add-on fee's, completely avoid it pretending it doesn't exist - they'll remove it, I promise ($400 for paint protection, $650 dash cam, $500 theft deterrent alarm? LOL... zero-in on MSRP. Pay ZERO attention to that other BS. I walked in and explained that I'm next on the list at multiple MSRP-only dealerships (Longo, Anaheim, etc)
      • They'll get salty that you're referring to much larger dealerships that are higher-volume and can afford to eat into margins by selling MSRP. Reply and ask them: if you're shopping for dish soap, are between two Target stores, and one is cheaper than the other - why would you go to the more expensive one? why is this any different?
  • Most MSRP-only dealers (ie: Longo) inventory won't show up on toyota.com's website - as their inventory is reserved and accounted for. Call and get on their waitlists because chances are no one ahead of you wants the same color/package combo you want (I called Longo yesterday, got on the list at roughly spot 45, not a single person wanted Blk/Brown LC lol)
  • Have crystal-clear examples on why you CAN'T have the add-ons:
    • Cross bars? Sorry, it won't fit in my garage with them - the extra few inches will hit my garage-top
    • Paint protection film? My cousin owns a shop and we're going to wrap it - so we'll need to remove it regardless
    • Theft deterrent alarm? I've already purchased an aftermarket one, don't need yours
    • Point being - if you clearly can't have these add-ons = end of negotiation. How can you argue for me to buy the crossbars if it takes away the ability for me to park it in my garage? (push for them to discount it, they can remove it after you buy)
  • They'll try to confuse you by grabbing paper and drawing those four quadrants/boxes during negotiations. Negotiate logically, first agreeing to the purchasing price, then how you pay for it ie: finance/lease terms/cash, then trade-in. Negotiate logically, 1 by 1. Be sure to lead them, don't let them lead you
  • If they can't go cheaper, get them to throw in additional incentives in order to make it worthwhile ie: maintenance costs, extended warranty, all-weather mats, keychains, etc. I'm surprised at how terrible most sales reps were at negotiating here... Rule #1 is never lower purchase price, instead sweeten the incentives...
  • Firmly propose the deal you want, and be willing to walk away. I cut to the chase, told them cash for MSRP, KBB for my trade in, and we have a deal... stuck my hand out for a handshake. That doesn't have to be your offer, ie: you can tell them $10k down, 5% rates pending +750 credit score, payments under $600/mo - I'll buy today. You'll see very quickly who's full of it and who's actually got the huevos to cut a deal
  • Lastly, it seems as if their ability to discount/sweeten the deal is highly dependent on where their quota-attainment is for the month. It sounds like there's both a # of vehicles sold component along with a separate quota-piece which they receive a kickback % based on sale price, which includes accelerators (ie: +150% of quota-retirement has a higher kickback % than +125%, which is higher than +100%, etc) which is why certain dealerships can hold out and won't entertain lower prices (their monthly attainment is likely higher or they might need a bigger sale to close the gap. vs. another dealership who might be in accelerators having over-achieved and might want to maximize his/her kickout quicker) hope that makes sense - in short, they'll be able to negotiate more if their monthly attainment is suffering

EDIT:
1. When dealerships promoted mark-ups, I politely told them that I'd be sharing my purchasing experience on the forums/online - a few seemed to pull back and be less aggressive. Would recommend you do the same
2. When test driving, I'd recommend peeping the video from the thread called 'the hybrid that can't' and revving the engine to make sure you don't hear knocking. I did, but while in park, not neutral

Hope this helps everyone. Good luck!
One important thing I learned years ago. When you talk about payment terms, they'll usually just raise the length of the loan to get you in that payment. You have to say I will pay X amount with 3 year financing or I'll pay X amount with 4 yesr financing.
Another good thing to do is walk away. Well I'm gonna think about it while I go shopping elsewhere and see. They often knock down another $500 that way. Last year I had a GM dealer knocked the price down twice while I was out front of the store ready to get in my vehicle, twice while I was driving an hour home, and once after I got home. it became a sweet deal until I looked at it more closely and realized they added $4000 on top of the MSRP just for market value they call it.
Also, never signed what they called the first pencil – the first offer.
At least my Toyota dealership doesn't even do that. I like the numbers. Some dealerships have told me they have to go by those rules there instead of just give me a flat rate one time offer nonnegotiable. I walk away and they let me walk away I'm not playing those stupid games. I'm not signing a piece of paper That says I promise to buy this if you agree to these terms. I'm not giving the sales rep my credit card to go show that I'm serious.
always know your credit score before you even go to a dealership because they will jack you up a few points.
I have one lied to my face and say my credit was only 675 at the credit union which I happen to bank at,. I actually had the app open to my account which showed my credit score of 715 at that time. He didn't say nothing and went to correct a deal. I should've just walked away at that time.
Then they hound you for an over price gap policy. Usually around $1500. My bank offered it for $300.
And then they offer you this stupid insurance for $5000 but there's a $2000 deductible.
Crazy stuff out there.
There are also legitimate buyers for certain banks that will guarantee you won't beat the rate. The last one I talk to you used to be a manager of a dealership and told me some of his tactics which made a lot of sense.
It wasn't that long ago you could just get it for about 20% under invoice but those days are long gone now since Covid.
Good luck to all. Sorry for the lengthy one.
PS. I have owned 19 or 20 brand new vehicles since 1994. I've been around the block.
You can also watch YouTube and learn all their tricks and lies and crap.
 
I understand your dilemma. I’m in the Atlanta area right across the street from a dealership that still has $9k markups plus a ton of add-ons. I had to go to Tennessee to get mines at MSRP.
Exactly. Be willing to travel to get MSRP. I test drove one and then never visited a dealership until I picked my LC up. I don't need the dealership bs or small talk, show me the numbers and I will throw down a deposit.
 
As mentioned above, if you're willing to travel, you'll have much opportunity to get the car you want at MSRP.

I recommend that you join this Facebook group.
facebook.com/groups/nomarkuptoyota

The group is for all Toyotas, but many LCs get listed for sale. Dealerships nationwide post their availability and it's a requirement that they are selling the car at MSRP. I've even seen LCs for sale at under MSRP (not often, but it has happened).

That's how I got my car. I live in NV. Via the FB group, found the car I wanted in Washington state. 2 days later I flew out to pick it up and drive it back.

If it's of any help, I had a good experience with the following dealerships. Both are selling at MSRP.
Edmark Toyota in Nampa, ID
Pullman Toyota in Pullman, WA (this is where I bought my car)

Note: There are a lot of dealerships that will not deal with CA, so be sure to mention that when speaking with an out-of-state dealership.
 
I was at a dealer yesterday and he said that within the next couple of weeks they will have received their entire allotment of LCs for 2024 and that they will not be getting any more until 2025. He also said that the 2025 LC will come out after all the other 2025 models have come out, including the 4runner.

I figure this is just a pressure tactic to get me to buy now, but wanted to see if anyone else is hearing anything similar from other dealers.
 
If a stealership was going to mark up a vehicle above the TSRP, I simply crossed them off my list of stealerships that I would ever do business with. I don’t care how big the stealership was. If they will steel from me when buying a car, they will figure out how to do so when I bring it in for service.

JUST WALK AWAY..

When they ask why, TELL THEM.
 
Back
Top