Pulsing vibration from left front tire

[MountainTruckR2]

Hello everyone,
I have a 1993 Land Cruiser FZJ80 with 308k miles. Just today I was making a slow, sharp left hand turn and felt a rhythmic light thumping coming through the floorboards into my left foot on the footrest pedal. It's only there when I do a sharp left turn.

Has anyone experienced something similar?
If so, could you let me know what it might be?
Is it a costly fix or something simple I might be able to do myself?

Thanks so much and keep posting great all-things-Land Crusher!


MountainTruchR2

 

[MJE]

80 Series

Toyota Land Cruiser, Toyota Autana, Toyota Burbuja (1990-1997)

www.landcruiserclub.net

Hey MTR2, hopefully someone here will know more than I do about the older LC’s. This forum seems geared towards the new 2024s though, so may not be the best source of mechanical info. Perhaps the 80 series forum might have more expertise in it to try too?

 

[Dragoon]

Hello everyone,
I have a 1993 Land Cruiser FZJ80 with 308k miles. Just today I was making a slow, sharp left hand turn and felt a rhythmic light thumping coming through the floorboards into my left foot on the footrest pedal. It's only there when I do a sharp left turn.

Has anyone experienced something similar?
If so, could you let me know what it might be?
Is it a costly fix or something simple I might be able to do myself?

Thanks so much and keep posting great all-things-Land Crusher!


MountainTruchR2

I would start by checking your wheel bearings and ball joints.

 

[izzysanchez]

Probably head to Ih8mud.com, the 80 series section, and you will tons of answers and cases solved for similar things. MIT could be as simple as rubber bushings worn out on control arms or anti sway bar, and check your wheel lugs to be tight. Or more serious like hub nut loose.
Depends on your tools and experience, can be a simple replacement. Control arms bushings will likely require a shop with a strong press.

 

[Bad1975]

Sounds like the burfield needs rebuilt (Right side), bearings specifically but typically you do both entire sides together (bearings, seals, gaskets, wiper and some hardware depending upon rust. There are some special tools to do properly. Parts only at least $1500.00

Quick checks:

1. Jack up the front of the vehicle and check for play in both sides by rocking tires back and forth from top to bottom. If there is play you can adjust the bearing preload to remove the play, need the large socket (don't remember the size off the top of my head and a pull gauge to set properly but can be done without the pull gauge by tightening the nut after releasing the locking star washer until the play is gone.

2. Inspect the backside (towards frame) burfield axle housing for grease and or diff fluid (if there is diff fluid your axle seals are toast). Normal appearance is light grease coat that has been mostly wiped off by the wiper during the cycling of steering if there is diff fluid dripping down coating the wheel and evidence of it running onto the inside of the tire the axle seals are leaking. If not repaired it can and eventually will destroy the burfield joints ($$$) and risk running the diff dry or too low causing damage there which will destroy those seals and bearings as well.

3. Remove the two grease plugs on top (backside of axle burfield spindle housing, the part that rotates on the axle housing) and inspect for the same if no previous findings of diff fluid and pack as much grease into the plugs as possible before reinstalling them.

4. Check for play in the steering ball joints, cracked or ripped rubber boots if there are the serviceable type (grease zerk ball joints), grease those and check for seepage when greasing from anywhere other than the small end of the boot.

5. With steering at full lock in both directions apply moderate throttle quickly and listen for popping, if popping is present refer to #1 but a rebuild is likely emanant.