Great post and thank you!
Any reason you did not go with the Dobinsons billet UCA's? Why the Camburg?
Did you preset the Dobinsons coilovers for 2.6" of lift prior to install (I believe they are 1"-3" adjustable).
No panhard rod? Was it not necessary?
Thanks again and glad you are stoked.
I will soon have the Dobinsons billet UCAs, the draw back to them is you have to press out your old upper ball joints and press them into the new arms. If I would have known that prior to purchase I would have gotten different UCAs. I'm not fan of anything Uniball, heim or that uses poly bushings vice rubber on a daily driver though as it adds harshness and sources for noise and most of the offerings available use one or more of the aforementioned in their UCAs.
Nothing really wrong with the Dobinsons UCAs but currently nobody makes an upper ball joint yet (Toyota decided to change to new never before used size for this platform) and nobody that I could find could tell me of anything pre existing that would work as of yet?
Toyota doesn't sell the upper ball joint, you have to by the entire arm with the ball joint for which it doesn't come with the ball joint dust boot and retaining ring for some odd reason and the maintenance literature states those items aren't re-useable?? I was hoping to at least get my hands on some upper ball joints so I could install them in the new UCAs prior to beginning the lift install. Instead I bought a shop press so I can press out and back in myself to limit the down time during install.
The Dobby UCAs do come with the required press adapters to safely press out and in though so that is a plus.
Everyone I spoke to said if you want the rear axle centered properly and to stay within factory alignment an adjustable panhard is a must for anything beyond 1" of rear lift, was told at less than 1" it will still be in spec but will not be centered at any lift above stock. They also mentioned to steer clear of on vehicle adjustable panhards as they have a tendency to come loose.
I'll be measuring all the pinion angles in stock configuration when I get ready to install my setup to determine if rear upper and lower four link bars are needed or not? I'm sure the pinion angles will change but I wanna see where it lands before I determine if those are necessary or not? There is the potential to be eating U-joints if the angles are too high or not inversely matching one another on the drive shafts and have the possibility of running the pinion bearing dry destroying the pumpkin as well. You can physically feel the vibration while driving from having the u-joint angles not matching sort like a unbalance tire feels and get worse the faster you go.
I wish someone made front adjustable sway bar end links, that is the only void I see in all manufacturers offerings. Any amount of lift is going to preload the front sway bar limiting articulation with SDM inactive and stiffening up the cornering, probably making the ride slightly more harsh on road or at speeds above SDM disconnect capabilities, although it may produce better cornering on the road similar to adding a larger sway bar.
King has front and rear sway bar end links but they aren't adjustable (front or rear) and aren't any longer (front) just beefier and they use either uniball or heim joints so that can lead to suspension clunks either from new or as it ages and the price for those is ridiculous for what your getting IMO.
very happy with the outcomes
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