Jack Points and Weld bead on frame, issue?

[KWLC250]

I'm about to swap the wheels on my 25' LC250. Looking at the manual and posts on here, I believe I've located the jack point on the front of the frame. I'm using a power built all in one bottle jack and stand rather than the bottle jack that comes from the factory with truck. There's a weld bead along the frame right where the jack/stand sits. Before I used this spot to jack the front of the car up I wanted to double check this wasn't an issue. I could move it slightly back but there is a whole in the frame slightly back. I could move it slightly forward, but that's where the frame starts to bend towards the middle of the car. I'd like to use the recommended jack point if it's not going to be an issue to have the jack/stand placing weight on that weld. Thanks!

 

[Mtn40]

I think you're fine anywhere there.
I would just try to find the place that the frame can sit even on the jack and, if you care about this kind of thing, where the jack will scratch up the frame the least. I have an old, thin (1/8") plastic cutting board I've cut up to make pads for my jack and jack stands because I'm particular about stuff like that.

 

[Matsayz]

Here's a post about this, LINK

 

[EOD Guy]

IMO, use the OEM jack points to jack it up and place your jack stands under the axle tubes in the rear and under the frame in the front.

 

[KWLC250]

IMO, use the OEM jack points to jack it up and place your jack stands under the axle tubes in the rear and under the frame in the front.

View attachment 36184
View attachment 36185

As far as I can tell this is the factory jack point (on the frame), correct? since it's a jack stand/jack combo and the top of the stand is what's actually going to be doing the lifting, I want to make sure that the wieght/pressure from the edges of the stand weren't going to stress the weld bead and cause any issues or cracking. The factory bottle jack wouldn't make contact with the weld, just the frame. But the way the the stand/jack "cradles" the frame it would make contact with the weld and most of the weight/stress would likely be there. IF that's not an issue, it's fine. But if that's not ideal, I'd likely move it up or back an inch or two to avoid the weld. Or use the factory bottle jack. This jack is just easier.

 

[EOD Guy]

As far as I can tell this is the factory jack point (on the frame), correct? since it's a jack stand/jack combo and the top of the stand is what's actually going to be doing the lifting, I want to make sure that the wieght/pressure from the edges of the stand weren't going to stress the weld bead and cause any issues or cracking. The factory bottle jack wouldn't make contact with the weld, just the frame. But the way the the stand/jack "cradles" the frame it would make contact with the weld and most of the weight/stress would likely be there. IF that's not an issue, it's fine. But if that's not ideal, I'd likely move it up or back an inch or two to avoid the weld. Or use the factory bottle jack. This jack is just easier.

The pinch seam (what I assume you're calling the weld bead) might in fact, bend with any side load. If it were me and I was dead set on using that jack and didn't want to bend the pinch seam, I'd cut the upward turned edges on the jack's shoe off and weld a new shoe (on top of the old shoe) with a slot for the pinch weld to fit into (kinda like the OEM jack's shoe)

 

[Bad1975]

That weld is stronger than the frame itself if it was done properly. I've jacked at the same location with same type jack stands without a worry or issue.

 

[KWLC250]

The pinch seam (what I assume you're calling the weld bead) might in fact, bend with any side load. If it were me and I was dead set on using that jack and didn't want to bend the pinch seam, I'd cut the upward turned edges on the jack's shoe off and weld a new shoe (on top of the old shoe) with a slot for the pinch weld to fit into (kinda like the OEM jack's shoe)

This is what I'm referring to if it's the pinch seam?

The green is the factory jack point, correct? Not sure what the hole is for (looks like maybe skid plate in the manual illustration. The video in the post referenced and linked above mentioned the 4Runner jack point has a square whole in the frame marking it's location. Not sure what this plastic piece is for either.

 

[EOD Guy]

You'll be fine putting the jack or jack stand in that location. (that is what you called it, a "welded seam")

If you bend that while jacking........ something else has gone trerribly wrong.......LOL

(edit) To clarify for some......... it's not a pinch seam it's just a welded seam.

 

[Mtn40]

Unless I'm totally misunderstanding something, there's no pinch seam (pinch weld?) anywhere there. That's a unibody car thing. I don't think you'll find a pinch seam on the 250 unless you're trying to lift on the body somewhere.

 

[KWLC250]

Unless I'm totally misunderstanding something, there's no pinch seam (pinch weld?) anywhere there. That's a unibody car thing. I don't think you'll find a pinch seam on the 250 unless you're trying to lift on the body somewhere.

That's exactly what I thought. I was very confused by the mention of a pinch seam.

 

[EOD Guy]

I edited post #9 to further clarify that it wasn't a pinch seam.............

 

[KWLC250]

Swapped em out today. Front Jack points on the frame were easy. It was a little harder finding a good spot on the rear end. The "cradle" of the stand/jack wasn't wide enough to cradle the rear end and was too tall to fit a 2x4 between them. It tried to use the factory bottle jack, it also didn't sit flush and actually slipped as I was attempting to lift the rear. Luckily the tire wasn't far even off the ground. So I went back to the power built jack/stand combo and tried to distribute the weight as best as possible. Seem to work out just fine.

Anyone who has swapped out or used the spare, did you actually use a torque wrench to tighten the down the spare with the spare tool kit? The manual says to tighten to 47ftlbs. I just snugged it up by hand real nice.

 

[kmershly]

I use ESCO jack stands and they are flat on top (work great with BMWs which have rubber jacking points from the factory) which makes placement a little easier because you do not need to worry as much about seam welds.

https://esco.net/product/3-ton-performance-jack-stand-pair/

 

[LCP250]

Powerbuilt has a rubber saddle accessory, if you're worried about metal to metal contact.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08KC7KWDC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Off subject, how do you like the PowerBuilt? Ordered the 4Ton, got yesterday and decided to return it. Looks like there's only 1 screw holding it down to the platform and it was loose.

I have the ProEagle 3ton, but it's big, ordered the 1.5t Talon, but considering the Caterpillar 4ton bottle jack...although minimum height may be too high.

https://www.amazon.com/Truck-Bottle-Stand-Equipment-Repair/dp/B0BQKKFQJS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2IIPXH7LW0O6N&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.U-L525DnyjEAXHk7mlmtI7VO3cqdvKyOku2Pfoto1xzlFxFZRSCZFzmiJM2MpbzNVgmYvs6zJXdI6fFm704qfrHH52oVKOcwhx6v2mNeDG4BD5DYOxe7wk7ZkeT_7VgQKLqKc6igsyG8N8Wsq3O8ha98wHeBP19CPcW33tZ7JPAXf_b7yKJfmh6pwE6p77SHVmptGZy27fMEYC5p5pVEEw.9KFF1caaBCmyK82Rtt5uShdACjA6uGSylFiyjfBEBeQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=cat+bottlejack&qid=1747082688&sprefix=cat+bottlejack%2Caps%2C308&sr=8-3

 

[KWLC250]

Powerbuilt has a rubber saddle accessory, if you're worried about metal to metal contact.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08KC7KWDC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Off subject, how do you like the PowerBuilt? Ordered the 4Ton, got yesterday and decided to return it. Looks like there's only 1 screw holding it down to the platform and it was loose.

I have the ProEagle 3ton, but it's big, ordered the 1.5t Talon, but considering the Caterpillar 4ton bottle jack...although minimum height may be too high.

https://www.amazon.com/Truck-Bottle-Stand-Equipment-Repair/dp/B0BQKKFQJS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2IIPXH7LW0O6N&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.U-L525DnyjEAXHk7mlmtI7VO3cqdvKyOku2Pfoto1xzlFxFZRSCZFzmiJM2MpbzNVgmYvs6zJXdI6fFm704qfrHH52oVKOcwhx6v2mNeDG4BD5DYOxe7wk7ZkeT_7VgQKLqKc6igsyG8N8Wsq3O8ha98wHeBP19CPcW33tZ7JPAXf_b7yKJfmh6pwE6p77SHVmptGZy27fMEYC5p5pVEEw.9KFF1caaBCmyK82Rtt5uShdACjA6uGSylFiyjfBEBeQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=cat+bottlejack&qid=1747082688&sprefix=cat+bottlejack%2Caps%2C308&sr=8-3

I like the powerbuilt. Easy to use, and had no issues with it. The 3 ton is welded to the platform. It is large(r) if you're looking for something to use on long trips or off road. I really don't like the bottle jack that came with the truck. I have read on other forums about people getting base plates (like those used for high jacks) and using them with the factory bottle jacks. I may add one for emergencies. I much preferred the base plate and sturdiness of the powerbuilt over the factory jack. I also wish there was point on the rear end that mated with the factory bottle jack. From some videos I've seen the 4Runner has a point on the rear end where the factory bottle jack "slots" in. The contact patch is so small and uneven between the factory jack and the rear end, since the rear end is curving upward away from the rear diff. When I was lifting the rear end with the factory bottle jack just to test where I had placed it, it lifted fine, but when I was lowering it back down the jack slipped out from under the rear end. Luckily the tire was barley off the ground and on the way back down, and that it happened when I was just testing and hadn't broken the lugs loose or removed the wheel.

 

[t3lcfe]

I like the powerbuilt. Easy to use, and had no issues with it. The 3 ton is welded to the platform. It is large(r) if you're looking for something to use on long trips or off road. I really don't like the bottle jack that came with the truck. I have read on other forums about people getting base plates (like those used for high jacks) and using them with the factory bottle jacks. I may add one for emergencies. I much preferred the base plate and sturdiness of the powerbuilt over the factory jack. I also wish there was point on the rear end that mated with the factory bottle jack. From some videos I've seen the 4Runner has a point on the rear end where the factory bottle jack "slots" in. The contact patch is so small and uneven between the factory jack and the rear end, since the rear end is curving upward away from the rear diff. When I was lifting the rear end with the factory bottle jack just to test where I had placed it, it lifted fine, but when I was lowering it back down the jack slipped out from under the rear end. Luckily the tire was barley off the ground and on the way back down, and that it happened when I was just testing and hadn't broken the lugs loose or removed the wheel.

Beside the factory bottle jack, while off-road trails, I carry another 8T bottle Jack and the base plate to secure the bottle jack.
This 8T Jack is small enough to carry but can lift your vehicle with thousand pound of gear I also got a couple accessories for bottle Jack

At home, I use 3T floor Jack to save your muscles

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Amazon.com: Flat Bottle Jack Lift Pad, Lifting Jack Pad for 1.25 Inch Bottle Jack Saddle, High Strength Anti Slip 6 Ton Jack Stand Pads, Universal Car Lift Tool : Industrial & Scientific

Buy Flat Bottle Jack Lift Pad, Lifting Jack Pad for 1.25 Inch Bottle Jack Saddle, High Strength Anti Slip 6 Ton Jack Stand Pads, Universal Car Lift Tool: Bottle Jacks - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG92PW68/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams

 

[LCP250]

I like the powerbuilt. Easy to use, and had no issues with it. The 3 ton is welded to the platform. It is large(r) if you're looking for something to use on long trips or off road. I really don't like the bottle jack that came with the truck. I have read on other forums about people getting base plates (like those used for high jacks) and using them with the factory bottle jacks. I may add one for emergencies. I much preferred the base plate and sturdiness of the powerbuilt over the factory jack. I also wish there was point on the rear end that mated with the factory bottle jack. From some videos I've seen the 4Runner has a point on the rear end where the factory bottle jack "slots" in. The contact patch is so small and uneven between the factory jack and the rear end, since the rear end is curving upward away from the rear diff. When I was lifting the rear end with the factory bottle jack just to test where I had placed it, it lifted fine, but when I was lowering it back down the jack slipped out from under the rear end. Luckily the tire was barley off the ground and on the way back down, and that it happened when I was just testing and hadn't broken the lugs loose or removed the wheel.

I concur, the rear end axle doesn't have much realestate for jack point. What makes it worse is, i have the diff. skid plate back there.

I wonder if the round shaped saddle can handle all the protruding metal. Using a Pro Eagle may work better, but footprint is big.

@t3lcfe that's an awsome looking base plate for your bottle jack. I usually carry a 8"x8" or 66% idpa plate ar500 plate and use for that purpose.

 

[t3lcfe]

I concur, the rear end axle doesn't have much realestate for jack point. What makes it worse is, i have the diff. skid plate back there.

I wonder if the round shaped saddle can handle all the protruding metal. Using a Pro Eagle may work better, but footprint is big.

@t3lcfe that's an awsome looking base plate for your bottle jack. I usually carry a 8"x8" or 66% idpa plate ar500 plate and use for that purpose.

Use the flat plate + rubber for front frame jack

For rear side, instead of differential (center) you should Jack at the axle (left or right) with this without worrying about slipping

I used to carry a couple wood 2x10 12”L, but now upgrade with this.

These can be used at home very well