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I'm not an expert on reading plugs but the on/around the electrode looks to have a lot of deposits. May I ask what grade of fuel you have been running.I just did my plugs at 42,000. It’s insanely easy. The hardest part was remembering to not bang my head into the hood. Im replacing them cause it calls to but i have my thoughts….
Costco premium only since I drove it off the lot.I'm not an expert on reading plugs but the on/around the electrode looks to have a lot of deposits. May I ask what grade of fuel you have been running.
I think it may just be the semi fish eye effect of the iphone camera. they were all the same. I never put anti seize on nickel plated plugs, never had any problems. Not sure that’s rust. It’s an AZ vehicle and sleeps in a garage. Maybe it’s from sitting in Japan before it got shipped hereThose plugs look perfect other than the rust on the threads and the first one looks like the ground is bent and the gap may be off, could have happened during removal though?
I'd put a small amount of zinc anti-seize and the threads to prevent the rust from continuing going forward.
That's good to hear! Hopefully I'll see the same results in 18,000 more miles.Those plugs look perfect other than the rust on the threads and the first one looks like the ground is bent and the gap may be off, could have happened during removal though?
I'd put a small amount of zinc anti-seize and the threads to prevent the rust from continuing going forward.
Welcome to the asylum.I just did my plugs at 42,000. It’s insanely easy. The hardest part was remembering to not bang my head into the hood. Im replacing them cause it calls to but i have my thoughts….
What torque spec did you do for the plugs? I couldn't find it in the manual.
Just add some Bosco...Sometimes this forum can turn drinking a glass of milk into feeling like a Bovine pasteurization lecture…
Agreed, Iridium plugs esp when highway miled will still look like new, even under magnification at that point.....just another way to get you in for service.......wonder what car care nut preaches here.....of course, on the other hand, if going thru the effort of pulling the plugs to check if gap opened, why not just replace them........what we can't see is degradation of the electrode..................Wow. I didn't realize that the LC250 hybrid calls for new iridium spark plugs every 40K miles. It certainly won't hurt, but those plugs should be good for more than double that distance. SMH. My RDX calls for replacing the plugs at 90K miles.
Yup sounds like a Camaro boy...................Go insert a tampon in your vagina….obviously at that time month for you.
Galvanic corrosion? I'm guessing the threads and the head are made of different metals (iron vs. aluminum?)Those plugs look perfect other than the rust on the threads and the first one looks like the ground is bent and the gap may be off, could have happened during removal though?
I'd put a small amount of zinc anti-seize and the threads to prevent the rust from continuing going forward.
Bi-metallic corrosion, Galvonic occurs when bi-metals are in contact with one another when stray current may be present (such as a boat in water at a powered morage) and the softer metal becomes the sacrificial anode whether intentional or not if you don’t have actual anodes present with them being the softest metal.Galvanic corrosion? I'm guessing the threads and the head are made of different metals (iron vs. aluminum?)
I would use genuine Toyota parts.My dealer is quoting me $45/plug $180 total and that’s just the parts department. What are others paying?
Are you using this this part number
Denso or NGK?
Toyota Part # 90919-A1008
TIA