changing spark plugs

I just did my plugs at 42,000. It’s insanely easy. The hardest part was remembering to not bang my head into the hood. Im replacing them cause it calls to but i have my thoughts….
 

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I just did my plugs at 42,000. It’s insanely easy. The hardest part was remembering to not bang my head into the hood. Im replacing them cause it calls to but i have my thoughts….
I'm not an expert on reading plugs but the on/around the electrode looks to have a lot of deposits. May I ask what grade of fuel you have been running.
 
Those plugs look perfect other than the rust on the threads and the first one looks like the ground is bent and the gap may be off, could have happened during removal though?

I'd put a small amount of zinc anti-seize and the threads to prevent the rust from continuing going forward.
 
Those plugs look perfect other than the rust on the threads and the first one looks like the ground is bent and the gap may be off, could have happened during removal though?

I'd put a small amount of zinc anti-seize and the threads to prevent the rust from continuing going forward.
I think it may just be the semi fish eye effect of the iphone camera. they were all the same. I never put anti seize on nickel plated plugs, never had any problems. Not sure that’s rust. It’s an AZ vehicle and sleeps in a garage. Maybe it’s from sitting in Japan before it got shipped here 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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Those plugs look perfect other than the rust on the threads and the first one looks like the ground is bent and the gap may be off, could have happened during removal though?

I'd put a small amount of zinc anti-seize and the threads to prevent the rust from continuing going forward.
That's good to hear! Hopefully I'll see the same results in 18,000 more miles.
 
What torque spec did you do for the plugs? I couldn't find it in the manual.
 
As mentioned above, super easy! Got four of the 90919-a1008 plugs from my dealer for around $50 total. Just replaced mine at 40K and took all of 20 minutes. Pulled, replaced and torqued to spec. "Old" plugs didn't look bad, but as easy as it is, will do it again at 80K.
 
Sometimes this forum can turn drinking a glass of milk into feeling like a Bovine pasteurization lecture…
 
Sometimes this forum can turn drinking a glass of milk into feeling like a Bovine pasteurization lecture…
Just add some Bosco...
 
Wow. I didn't realize that the LC250 hybrid calls for new iridium spark plugs every 40K miles. It certainly won't hurt, but those plugs should be good for more than double that distance. SMH. My RDX calls for replacing the plugs at 90K miles.
Agreed, Iridium plugs esp when highway miled will still look like new, even under magnification at that point.....just another way to get you in for service.......wonder what car care nut preaches here.....of course, on the other hand, if going thru the effort of pulling the plugs to check if gap opened, why not just replace them........what we can't see is degradation of the electrode..................
 
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Those plugs look perfect other than the rust on the threads and the first one looks like the ground is bent and the gap may be off, could have happened during removal though?

I'd put a small amount of zinc anti-seize and the threads to prevent the rust from continuing going forward.
Galvanic corrosion? I'm guessing the threads and the head are made of different metals (iron vs. aluminum?)
 
If you plan on pulling your plugs to "check them" you should have a new set handy. First, you're not supposed to reinsert a spark plug without replacing the crush washer (i know, i know, we've all done it), and second, if you damage an insulator etc, youre sol until you aquire new plugs. Typically, only time you NEED to check plugs is when you're tuning, or have changed tuning of an engine.
Replace all of them at recommended intervals with pre-gapped OEM and forget about it. (Blow out the plug tubes before removal)
I use a sliver of neverseize even though is not recommended typically. If youve ever had to remove a seized spark plug, you now use neverseize on everything.
 
Galvanic corrosion? I'm guessing the threads and the head are made of different metals (iron vs. aluminum?)
Bi-metallic corrosion, Galvonic occurs when bi-metals are in contact with one another when stray current may be present (such as a boat in water at a powered morage) and the softer metal becomes the sacrificial anode whether intentional or not if you don’t have actual anodes present with them being the softest metal.

There are also electronic systems to reduce the effect and help direct this corrosion to the actual anodes when metals as the same type as the anodes are used. Doesn’t work in a vehicle insulated from ground by the tires unless of course you submerge it in water. 😁
 
My dealer is quoting me $45/plug $180 total and that’s just the parts department. What are others paying?
Are you using this this part number

Denso or NGK?
Toyota Part # 90919-A1008

TIA
 
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