Very close to completely solving my audio concerns and upgrade

Thx_1158

Active member
📛 Founding Member
Aug 6, 2024
162
Media
15
186
Texas
Vehicles
2025 LC 250
Here is what I upgraded to and why:
  • JL Audio C2-350x (Dash, Channels 1–2):
    • Type: Bandpass filter (to limit tweeter overlap and low-end distortion).
    • High-Pass Filter (HPF): 200 Hz, 12 dB/octave (protects from low frequencies, focuses on midrange).
    • Low-Pass Filter (LPF): 3 kHz, 12 dB/octave (reduces overlap with C26 tweeters, keeps mids clean).
  • Hertz C26 Tweeters (A-pillars, Channels 3–4):
    • Type: High-pass filter.
    • HPF: 3 kHz, 12 dB/octave (complements C2-350x, focuses on highs).
    • Rationale: Starts where C2-350x cuts off, ensuring smooth transition and clear highs without doubling up on tweeter frequencies.
  • Hertz C165 (Front Doors, Channels 5–6):
    • Type: High-pass filter.
    • HPF: 80 Hz, 12 dB/octave (prevents distortion from low bass, blends with subwoofer).
    • Rationale: Focuses on midbass and mids (55 Hz–7 kHz), critical for rock guitar and vocals.
  • Hertz C165 + C26 (Rear Doors, Channels 7–8):
    • C165:
      • Type: High-pass filter.
      • HPF: 100 Hz, 12 dB/octave (slightly higher than front to reduce bass load, maintains clarity).
    • C26 (if parallel):
      • HPF: 3 kHz, 12 dB/octave (matches A-pillar tweeters for consistency).
    • Rationale: Rear speakers provide fill, not primary soundstage, so slightly higher HPF reduces bass emphasis.
  • Kicker 51PTRTP10 (Subwoofer):
    • Type: Low-pass filter.
    • LPF: 80 Hz, 24 dB/octave (blends with front door C165, delivers tight bass).
I did loose some cargo space as it wasn't much of a concern to me and I have the Amp on top of the sub with a custom ventilated enclosure so I can get to it easily. My kicker bass control is under the dash next to the wireless charger. So far I am very happy. I am going to replace the JL's in the dash corners with Hertz MP70.3 and retuning the DSP. I have full range, crisp music with a nice "musical" bass. I'm going to make some type of rear shelve and brace the Kicker sub. Just thought I'd share as I chased this for a while and spent more money than I wanted to trying to find the right combonation.
 
Thanks for sharing your experience. I wish you were in my neighborhood so I could hear the outcome. Seems appropriate that you would also share your off-roading playlist! 🎶
 
Thanks for sharing your experience. I wish you were in my neighborhood so I could hear the outcome. Seems appropriate that you would also share your off-roading playlist! 🎶
I use a streaming service called Qobuz. Lots of high resolution audio there for not a lot of cash. As I’m an old guy… center on 70’s stuff. On the upgrades, I really wish I would have known a lot of this going in. I’ve went thru a couple speaker sets.

The members here shared a ton of knowledge and I started using some closed source AI to run equipment compatibility and integration analysis along with tuning for the amp. Amazing results. Heck I even asked it to run test music for the system.
 
Last edited:
What amp or amps are you using and what dsp system are you using?
Alpine PXE-C80-88 DSP/Amplifier with PAC interface maintains plug and play. It’s an 8-channel DSP/amplifier is ideal for a high-end, balanced soundstage, enhancing clarity for rock vocals and guitars and punchy bass. Some specs below:

• Channels: 8 channels (configurable for 6 speakers + subwoofer or bi-amped setups).

• Power Output: 50W RMS x 8 @ 4 ohms; 100W RMS x 4 @ 4 ohms (bridged).

• Frequency Response: 10 Hz–48 kHz.

• Signal-to-Noise Ratio: >100 dB.

• DSP Features: 31-band EQ per channel, time alignment, adjustable crossovers (high-pass, low-pass, bandpass), phase control.


• Impedance Compatibility: Handles 2-ohm and 4-ohm loads, matching your Hertz C165 (4 ohms) and Kicker subwoofer (2 ohms).
 
which stock audio system did you start with? (1958, base LC, premium pkg with JBL)?
 
Back
Top