Kill switch

The concept is sound, however it would be very easy to bypass (un-kill switch) by just looking at the fuse box. Additionally, in order to make it hard to find in the interior, it might be hard to use or if it's easy to use it would be easy to find.

I have something very similar, but it's buried in the wiring loom and I left the OEM fuse in place (no longer connected to anything but visible). I have two switches operating a "Flip" then "Flop" relay.

The "on" switch/button (disconnecting the fuse) is fairly visible as I'm not trying to hide it too well. My thought process is, if I forget to turn it "on" (disconnect the fuse) and someone breaks in and sees the switch and pushes it, they have effectively disabled the fuel system (there is no fuse labeled "Fuel") and pushing the button again would have zero effect on reversing the lock out........ It locks in the relay in the "flip" position.

The "off" switch (reconnects the fuse) Is so well hidden, no one would ever find it visually or by feel. It's a magnetic proximity switch with a target area of 1/2" and a range of less than 1/4", so you would have to know exactly where to place a metallic object (a quarter works well) in order for it to activate. Once triggered the relay locks in the "flop" position until the other switch is pressed etc.....
 
Easiest place to do this would be to tap into the positive to the full pump at or near the pump with your switch inline on the positive wire, could also do it on the ground side as well.

The voltage there will PWM but doesn’t matter for the purpose of a kill switch.

Cut the line and wire in a switch there are pass through rubber boots on both driver and passenger sides near the front of the outside seat rails. Peel back the tape on the pass through to loosen it enough to run your wires to choice of switch location and tape it back up to seal it again.
 
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Just aft of xfer case cross member.


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Easiest place to do this would be to tap into the positive to the full pump at or near the pump with your switch inline on the positive wire, could also do it on the ground side as well.

The voltage there will PWM but doesn’t matter for the purpose of a kill switch.

Cut the line and wire in a switch there are pass through rubber boots on both driver and passenger sides near the front of the outside seat rails. Peel back the tape on the pass through to loosen it enough to run your wires to choice of switch location and tape it back up to seal it again.
EOD Guy and Bad1975, you both are pro on that. If I want that route, will need a pro help
That $20 solution from my link of Amazon is quick/cheap and thief can see that if “open the hood and fuse cover”…
I think this so-called “kill switch” just to add another layer (beside Sterling wheel lock) to SLOW DOWN the thief ( or make thief working harder to “earn” the LC 😜)
This solution is for non-pro electrical guys like many of us! Who afraid to cut the factory wiring ;) Now, do you know which fuse I can tap on ?
 
You could try the DC cut fuse. Pretty sure you have to relearn power seat position and rear lift gate anytime you do that though?
 
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