Cold air intake options

It will be louder, with both intake hissing and likely the blowoff valve. (Or recirculation valve, whatever you want to call it) Im sure there will be a few coming out, its whether or not the small gain are worth the money.
 
It will be louder, with both intake hissing and likely the blowoff valve. (Or recirculation valve, whatever you want to call it) Im sure there will be a few coming out, its whether or not the small gain are worth the money.
Aren’t CAI useless on turbo cars though? Especially since the OEM air box is technically a CAI.
 
not always. Some cars have pretty restrictive piping or all kinds or weird designs to keep noise down.

Aftermarket intake can be beneficial. These days honestly just throwing in an drop in K&N is best bang for your buck.
 
CAI and even the K&N’s are a waste of money on turbo engines. Only real gains you’ll see is an engine tune and removing restrictions (catalytic converters) along the charge pipe and down-pipe. You’ll probably want a turbo boost control and stay away from changing the blowoff valve since the turbo is small. But if you straight pipe the truck and tune it, your neighbors will hate you every time you turn the truck on (speaking from personal experience).

I’ll be interested if someone makes an oil catch can for the engine, more than anything.
 
CAI and even the K&N’s are a waste of money on turbo engines. Only real gains you’ll see is an engine tune and removing restrictions (catalytic converters) along the charge pipe and down-pipe. You’ll probably want a turbo boost control and stay away from changing the blowoff valve since the turbo is small. But if you straight pipe the truck and tune it, your neighbors will hate you every time you turn the truck on (speaking from personal experience).

I’ll be interested if someone makes an oil catch can for the engine, more than anything.
Done it check the new thread
 
Apparently aFe just released their intake option-
Momentum GT Cold Air Intake System w/ Pro DRY S Filter
Curious if any other options were shown at SEMA?
...and thoughts if this will negativly impact noise? I dont want my truck sounding like a high-schoolers econo box.


I like that the K&N molded tube goes all the way to the turbo. In cabin phone on the wireless charge pad.
 
Most CAI I have seen in past 10 years are lucky to give you 1-2HP....but a whole lot more noise. Majority of the time they are only beneficial if used in conjunction with tunes and/or exhaust, esp if restrictive...then it is typically that single restrictive component that causes 90% of the improvement.
Finally, K&N air filters used to be a bang for your buck but they can have a nasty side effect on many of today's hyper sensitive MAF sensors....oil. Again maybe 1 HP gain. The OEs striving for every last .1 mpg have factory optimized most of this stuff. Feel free to throw your money away though..unless you want a lot of hissing ond BOV sounds......
 
Most CAI I have seen in past 10 years are lucky to give you 1-2HP....but a whole lot more noise. Majority of the time they are only beneficial if used in conjunction with tunes and/or exhaust, esp if restrictive...then it is typically that single restrictive component that causes 90% of the improvement.
Finally, K&N air filters used to be a bang for your buck but they can have a nasty side effect on many of today's hyper sensitive MAF sensors....oil. Again maybe 1 HP gain. The OEs striving for every last .1 mpg have factory optimized most of this stuff. Feel free to throw your money away though..unless you want a lot of hissing ond BOV sounds......
and more dirt....
 
1)Has anybody installed the OEM Trailhunter airbox on their LC?
2) has anybody installed the OEM Trailhunter airbox with the OEM Snorkel/Raised air aintake on their LC?

How did it sound in each case...?
 
Having built numerous engines, 4cyl boxers on through LS motors, I can tell you that things like CAI’s and charge pipes, etc. DO make a difference but more in a “sum of all parts” way than outright gains you would get individually by SOTP feel or hard HP/TQ #’s

Even framing it by sum of all parts, it doesn’t always necessarily equate to outright power- could be better throttle response, reduced knock, less stress, and so on.

If you are really interested in learning about this rabbit hole, I would highly suggest watching David Freiburger’s “Engine Masters”. While not usually on small displacement engines, they test all kinds of widely accepted horsepower tricks and forum lore to see if it actually pans out from a HP/TQ perspective and discuss what it means on the road in the real world. It’s an excellent gearhead show & SUPER techy- my wife just loves it (lol)

I raced an ‘06 STi for several years & beat up on vettes/porsches/mustangs (loved pissing those guys off) and later built an 800 hp T-Type, had several vettes along the way including a 1000hp ZR1. An old racer convinced me to wrap my down pipe and exhaust on the STi to get better exhaust flow-keeps everything hot and exhaust flows better hot. I thought he was crazy, but I was willing to try, and it made a noticeable difference in spool time and my lap times dropped. I was surprised. I did the same on the GN and it couldn’t have cared less.

For me on my LC, I’m thinking there’s not much payout from a HP adder/gains standpoint, at least not worth the $$, so weight savings might be the play. That’s said, a lot of the overlanding/off-road stuff doesn’t exactly foster weight savings, so I’m just doing what I like and enjoying it.
 
Turbo engines compress air and use intercoolers to cool it down after charging, before the compressed air before reaches the engine. I do not think cooling air hitting turbo intake would make any difference, as the thing that limits how fast the turbo spins is output pressure (i.e. density of the compressed air that prevents the turbine from spinning any faster).
 
Turbo engines compress air and use intercoolers to cool it down after charging, before the compressed air before reaches the engine. I do not think cooling air hitting turbo intake would make any difference, as the thing that limits how fast the turbo spins is output pressure (i.e. density of the compressed air that prevents the turbine from spinning any faster).
I don't think it works quite that way........... The turbo does force the air into the intercooler and pre-turbo air temperature shouldn't make a great deal of difference, but it would have an effect in some situations (depending on the equipment).

The limiting factor on how fast the turbine spins, is the amount of exhaust gases flowing across the hot side of the turbine as most turbo systems use a blow-off valve or waste gate that bleeds off excess pressure on the cold side. If the waste gate/blow off was adjusted to zero, then it might limit the cold side turbine due to compression and air volume, depending on the intake manifold. But I'm not aware of any turbo wastegate/blow off system that uses a zero setting.

Just my opinion........
 
I don't think it works quite that way........... The turbo does force the air into the intercooler and pre-turbo air temperature shouldn't make a great deal of difference, but it would have an effect in some situations (depending on the equipment).

The limiting factor on how fast the turbine spins, is the amount of exhaust gases flowing across the hot side of the turbine as most turbo systems use a blow-off valve or waste gate that bleeds off excess pressure on the cold side. If the waste gate/blow off was adjusted to zero, then it might limit the cold side turbine due to compression and air volume, depending on the intake manifold. But I'm not aware of any turbo wastegate/blow off system that uses a zero setting.

Just my opinion........
Yes, you are right. I was trying to simplify the process in my comment, to make it easier to make a direct comparison.

Like if neither the exhaust flow is limiting on hot side, and if the boost is not vented, how fast the turbine spins will be limited by the air drag at cold side of the turbo (assuming internal mechanical resistance is not limiting).

So if turbo was supplied with colder air, input air will be denser and it will achieve same boost at a lower turbine RPM. If the input air is warmer, it will be less dense so the turbine will achieve the same boost at a higher RPM. This is similar to how turbos achieve same boost at different elevations.

The only thing that may be different is if the input air is colder, less heat will be generated from compressing it since it will undergo a smaller deltaP. But with the heat transferred to cold side from the hot side, plus intercooler, I am not sure if that would make a noticeable difference at engine intake end.
 
Colder vs hotter air won’t change boost pressure. The speed at which the turbines spin is a function of exhaust gas flow, along with wastegate and hot vs cold side turbine size is what determines how much boost is developed. The colder charge will be denser more oxygen rich and nothing more happening here. Not much to be done here other than providing air not from inside the engine bay (as is stock) , any gains beyond that require a larger volume intercooler with less pressure drop and great cooling capacity. A good intercooler is the best bang for your buck performance gain for a turbo.

Boost decreases as elevation increases because atmospheric pressure goes down. Think of this, a N/A engine at sea level is providing 14.7 psi. This turbo makes another 15 psi max above atmospheric so at sea level nearly 30 psi at 10,000 feet you lose almost 5 psi boost ~25psi going to engine which is 1/3 or greater lose in performance.

The downside of a turbo engine is that they are complete dogs when boost can’t be made, LC250 would be a little better due to hybrid assist.

Recirculation valve or blow off valves are intake side vs waste gate is exhaust side

So a waste gate (hot side) is nothing like a blowoff valve or recirculation valve (cold side) in function.

The LC250 has as recirc valve as do most any modern turbo engines due to using a MAF prior to the turbo. If you dump the boost at throttle lift through a blow off valve it will cause a massive rich to lean swing during each event, best case you ruin the CATS quickly, worst case you cause detonation. The recirc valve dumps the boost back into the intake post cold side turbine vice to atmosphere since it’s already been metered and accounted for by the MAF to prevent this.

A waste gate bypasses the exhaust turbine and routes the exhaust around it into the exhaust. This is the number one controller of max boost pressure allowed as it begins opening and bypassing the turbine at max boost setting. Sometimes you can adjust for more boost (vacuum operated) or change the spring (mechanical operated) but it’s a dangerous game if you don’t know if the injectors can handle the greater supply of fuel required under more boost, if the ECU fuel map will compensate beyond stock boost, can the turbine handle increased speeds, can the bearings be adequately supplied with enough oil to keep them in the temp range designed for and not to mention if the engine can handle it.

The wastegate is usually mounted directly to the hot side housing on OEM turbo applications. It’s normally controlled via a vacuum diaphragm on a linkage that connects to the exhaust turbine bypass valve inside the compressor exhaust housing.

As vacuum decreases (throttle and load input) the valve begins closing by the linkage movement (boost builds) at max designed boost it will open via ECU signals to a vacuum solenoid which regulates the vacuum supply to the waste gate to prevent turbine overspeed and over boost. There are other designs of vacuum control but most OEMs use this method due to the ability to fine tune and rapidly control the waste gate allowing for very controlled and precise boost control (not solely dependent upon engine vacuum). This solenoid is what prevents boost when in Park and other scenarios where that would be impossible if solely relying upon engine vacuum.

Hope this helps with understanding the turbo and it components.
 
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