“Additional Skid Plates”

BMFS33

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Hello! For context, I’ll be riding up to intermediate trails in very rocky terrain in Colorado as well as some riding in Moab. I have installed the “standard” skids from Toyota (upgraded front to back including rear differential). I know that I should definitely pick up a fuel tank skid but what about these others. I’m not running a lift, pure stock with 33’s. Do you recommend these additional skids for rocky terrain with an almost 100% stock rig?
 

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I recommend the SLEE radiator support bracket (or upgrade the skid entirely to a Victory 4x4) to brace your engine skid plate much more than I would additional skid plates.
 
I recommend the SLEE radiator support bracket (or upgrade the skid entirely to a Victory 4x4) to brace your engine skid plate much more than I would additional skid plates.
Oh ya. Thats one that’s done.
 

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Hello,


In my opinion, the small skid plates intended to protect the lower shocks and control arms are ineffective. Because they bolt directly onto the components they are meant to protect, they provide no almost no load distribution or deflection before impact. The lower control arm (LCA) itself is already a very robust component, and since the skid plate is bolted directly to it, the force of an impact may still cause the component to fail.

Regarding the fuel tank skid plate, I recommend confirming with the manufacturer whether it is designed to support the full weight of the vehicle or at if it can articulate a figure. If it is not, an effective pressure on the tank skid could force the plate against the fuel tank, compromising its structural integrity. In that case, the skid plate would be ineffective, or maybe just better in load distribution. So with not a real improvement than the OEM lightweight skid plate.

In Europe, hardcore enthousiasts for differential or bottom shocks protection are welding skid plate supports. Pictured below on lower axle links. This design offer at least some deflection but it's not bolt on...

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Hello! For context, I’ll be riding up to intermediate trails in very rocky terrain in Colorado as well as some riding in Moab. I have installed the “standard” skids from Toyota (upgraded front to back including rear differential). I know that I should definitely pick up a fuel tank skid but what about these others. I’m not running a lift, pure stock with 33’s. Do you recommend these additional skids for rocky terrain with an almost 100% stock rig?
Slee is fantastic for all things LC. I have some products from both Slee and RCI and generally find Slee to be the better of the two (I'm not saying RCI isn't good, just that I think Slee is better in my experience.) Here is a list of the skids on my LC which has seen a decent amount of time on trails in Colorado (up to trails rated "5" on OnX).

  • Upgraded OEM First Edition style skids (easy on and off for when I'm working on the LC)
  • Slee Rock Sliders (look fantastic and function well as a step)
  • Slee RCR (radiator skid - an absolute must)
  • Front and rear link arm skids (I recommend them due to the relatively thin sheet metal where they connect to the LC)
  • Rear shock mount skids (not required, but relatively inexpensive for the protection they provide)
I've taken hits on the rock sliders and the OEM skid plates, but have not noted any hits to the other skids. My A-arms did touch a few times, but I don't have skids for those (and don't plan to get them at this time.)
 
Agreed with the above posts. Fuel tank, absolutely, as well as the rad support. Shock mounts, diff skid, etc. is not really necessary or particularly effective.
 
Agreed with the above posts. Fuel tank, absolutely, as well as the rad support. Shock mounts, diff skid, etc. is not really necessary or particularly effective.
I added the rear shock mount skids last. I've seen rigs who have dragged across their rear shock mounts on boulders and decided to add protection to that location. Having said that, I don't see any evidence that I hit rear shock mount skids last year on the trails.
 
What is everyone’s thoughts on the transfer case skid plates? I have both the oem skids and have taken some hits on them. The transfer case seems like an area open to damage. I bought the RCI skid but have not installed yet.
 
What is everyone’s thoughts on the transfer case skid plates? I have both the oem skids and have taken some hits on them. The transfer case seems like an area open to damage. I bought the RCI skid but have not installed yet.
This is another skid I’m thinking of installing. I’m pretty sure that I’m going to do this one as well as the fuel tank skid in addition to the lower link skids and shock skids. I’m thinking steel on the gas tank but it’s 60+ pounds in steel.
 
I added the rear shock mount skids last. I've seen rigs who have dragged across their rear shock mounts on boulders and decided to add protection to that location. Having said that, I don't see any evidence that I hit rear shock mount skids last year on the trails.
I have scrapes on my passenger side rear shock skid. I couldn't be more pleased that I added all of the protection that I've added because it's all been touched.
 
I have scrapes on my passenger side rear shock skid. I couldn't be more pleased that I added all of the protection that I've added because it's all been touched.
I also have scrapes on my passenger side shock skids as well as the first edition engine and transfer case skids after fins and things in Moab. Loads of fun getting these scrapes!
 
I also have scrapes on my passenger side shock skids as well as the first edition engine and transfer case skids after fins and things in Moab. Loads of fun getting these scrapes!
When you rode fins and things did you have a lift?
What kind of so?
 
I also have scrapes on my passenger side shock skids as well as the first edition engine and transfer case skids after fins and things in Moab. Loads of fun getting these scrapes!
It didn't happen unless you show us some pics. C'mon, man!
 
Just did fins and things stock. Scraped the hitch and minor plastic scrapes on running boards. Was harder than i expected, not for newbs without help. View attachment 77449View attachment 77451
Impressive! I need to bookmark this post as reference for folks who think they can’t get off-road without building a bro-dozer! I love to see people gettin at it.
 
Impressive! I need to bookmark this post as reference for folks who think they can’t get off-road without building a bro-dozer! I love to see people gettin at it.
I wanted to prove to myself the LC could do it stock but was tough without a spotter. I had to get out about 5 times and plan a route. 4lo and mts in rock mode. No center lock, no rear lock. Not needed and make sharp course adjustments difficult.
 
For Moab I'd definitely recommend a welded-on solution for the lower link arms on the rear axle where they attach to the frame and a good set of sliders.

Those lower link connections are prone to damage even on my 6" lifted 80 series with 35s with an identical wheelbase.

Agreed the lower shock mounts are next to useless, they may protect the bolt and lower shock itself but not much else and would make removal fun! May be a different story in a boulder field but at Moab the tire is going to lift with it unless you make a mistake a scrape along a rock, small chance if side slipping off a rock too but I wouldn't worry about those.

You can do allot of Moab stock, but in some areas, you may have to take some of the easier lines. I wouldn't attempt Top of the World in a stock height 250 though, too much trail damage and erosion from people who probably shouldn't have attempt it and have dug out many of the step approaches. TOTW is getting to be a fair difficult challenge with 6" lift and 35s now. TLCA recommends, front and rear lockers, winch and 37s and won't let you run that trail during a sponsored event with less than 35s, rear locker and winch. I'd image they will raise the requirement in the next few years if trail repairs aren't done.
 
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